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 Paddling Journal September 2005

Cooler weather on the way - I hope!

Trips this month: 10
Total trips this year: 76
Hours out this month: 36
Distance this month: 67.5 miles
Distance this year: 413 miles

9/4/05

Pumpkin Hill

9/6/05

St. Mary's River

9/12/05

Hannah Mills

9/13/05

Browns Creek

9/16/05

Simpsons Creek

9/18/05

Cedar Point

9/22/05

Browns Creek

9/25/05

Pumpkin Hill

9/26/05

Hannah Mills

9/30/05

Simpsons Creek

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9/4/05
Put-In :
Pumpkin Hill
Destination : Tiger Point
Time : 7:15 am
Trip Length : 4 hrs (8 miles)
Temp : 75
Weather : clear, calm, breezy
Water : calm, choppy
Tide : Incoming
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons,  Roseate Spoonbills, Tri-Colors, Snowy Egrets, Osprey, Black Crowned Night Herons and Yellow Crowned Night Heron.

Yellow Crowned Night Heron on Pumpkin Hill

This will be the last Sunday morning paddle for a while with football season starting next week so I got up early and was in the water a few minutes after the sun rose over Black Hammock Island.

It was a pretty uneventful trip out to the point - I stopped at the bend just before the long run to Tiger point and shot the usual assortment of herons which lately has included a large number of Night Herons - both Black Crowned and Yellow Crowned. As I was stopped there a pair of Spoonbills flew overhead making a beeline for their roost at Tiger. With the tide high, I knew that the feeding time would be over and therefore I expected to see the trees covered in pink.

In that regard, I was somewhat disappointed as there was only about a half dozen Spoonbills along with a Wood Stork and a Cormorant. With the tide coming in, the current pushed me quickly under their perch and I got some good shots while I tried to avoid their droppings. The Wood Stork eyed me nervously as I passed directly beneath him but stayed put.

I beached my boat at the point, strung my hammock and ate my energy bar while I enjoyed the sea breeze that was kicking up now. After a rest I took a walk in the woods behind the point and got some good shots from that vantage point but I also think I was nailed by every yellow fly in Jacksonville.

On the trip back I stopped to investigate a couple of the streams that go up along the undeveloped western edge of Black Hammock Island. The tide was slack and the stiff breeze was mostly in my favor so it was an easy trip back.

See the pictures from this trip

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9/6/05
Put-In :
St. Mary's River (Stokes Bridge)
Destination : About 5 miles SW
Time : 8:30 am
Trip Length : 5 hrs (10 miles)
Temp : 75
Weather : clear, calm, breezy
Water : calm, choppy
Tide : n/a
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Heron,  White Egret, Ibis, Kingfisher, Gators, and Cormorant

Egret on the St Mary's River

Time for my usual Tuesday thing - exploring the St. Mary's River - little by little. Today, I got an early start and decided to try the next put-in south - the Stokes Bridge. To get there I took I-295 to I-10 and then exited at 301 and headed north until I reached CR-119 which took me over to CR-121. It was just a couple of miles south from there to Stokes Road - a dirt road that led to a one lane bridge across the river. All of the driving access to the put-ins on either side of the river have been blocked so I had to climb down to the sandy beach on the NW side of the bridge.

One of the reasons that I chose to explore the St. Mary's today was because of the Nor'Easter that was blowing out on the coast and I could see the clouds racing by above me but down in the river valley I was unaffected. As I set out I saw a flock of Ibis fly overhead and a White Egret came swooping down the river shortly afterward making me hopeful of more wildlife than my usual excursions here.

Wildlife or not the scenery on the St. Mary's was, as always, unparalleled and this section, much like the section I did last week was undeveloped for the first several miles and not until the very end did I see signs of humans. About a mile upstream of the bridge I flushed a Great Blue Heron who was sitting at the mouth of a creek. Just looking up the stream from the mouth was beautiful so I decided to take some time to explore it.

Cypress on the St. Mary's

It was a good decision as what I found was a primordial stream full of the best scenery I have ever seen on the Mary. It was dark and spooky and it was obvious that sunlight rarely touched these waters or the vegetation that lie beneath the canopy of oaks and cypress. I have never seen such huge cypress trees and each one appeared to sculpted by an artist. I passed one that evoked images of the movie "Aliens" as it appeared ready to give birth to something that lay beneath it's trunk. There was a White Egret that was wading along the shallows  and I wound up chasing him deep into the forest until I finally decided to give up the chase. The water got increasingly swift as I got deeper in the forest and that along with the many snags and narrowing channel made the going tricky. I could have stayed there for a lot longer but I decided to head back to the river and continue my trip.

Spider on the St. Mary's

The rest to the trip south was uneventful. The river here is incredibly beautiful with either high banks or pure white sandy beaches on either side. After about four miles I spotted the head of a small gator peeking out of the water looking at me but he disappeared before I could get my camera out. A minute later either he or another one surfaced on the opposite bank and swirled away.

About this time I began to see what I had not seen for most of my explores on the Mary - houses. Well, I'm not sure if I could actually call these houses as most of these were hovels at best and represented what is the worst of unchecked development in Florida. One trailer was using dozens of old spare tires to shore up the bank and a few feet away sat a large satellite dish - in the river. My guess is that it only gets the Fishing Channel - but who knows?

The river began to widen out here and the current slowed considerably which made the going easier but I had become so disgusted by the sight of human habitation that I cut my trip short and turned back to head home.

I stopped at a place I had seen on my trip down where a stream cut through a white beach and headed deep into the woods. I pulled off and hung my hammock and ate lunch and then decided to explore the woods where the stream was coming from. What I found was another unexpected treat of an isolated cypress swamp surrounded by white sandy banks.

The rest of the trip was easy and uneventful although I could see and hear the wind whipping through the trees above me. Once I got back I decided to take the long way home heading west to Georgia's 121 and then north, passing through St. George on my way to Trader's Hill where there is a nice recreation area and boat ramp.

See the pictures from this trip

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9/12/05
Put-In :
Hannah Mills
Destination : ICW
Time : 5:00 pm
Trip Length : 2 1/2 hrs (6.5 miles)
Temp : 80
Weather : clear, breezy
Water : light chop
Tide : incoming-outgoing
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons,  White Egrets, Kingfisher, Ospreys, Oyster Catchers, Black Bellied Plovers, Ruddy Turnstones, Ducks and Green Herons

Green Heron hiding in the grass along Hannah Mills

An after school meeting that Hope and I were planning to attend was cancelled which made me glad since I was eyeing the flood tides on the way home from work and thinking - "what a great day to be on the water!"

So - on to Hannah and I was in the water at 5 catching the last of the incoming tide. I had to park well up the bank since the water levels were so high and it was that extra water that sent the bird life well up into the grass in search of food and meant that my photo ops on the way out to the ICW were few. Just before I reached the waterway, however, I caught a face peering at me from the grass a few feet away so I pulled over to the side thinking that what I thought was a Tri-Color would fly off noisily well before I was able to shoot him. I should have known better - if it had been a Tri-Color, I never would have gotten the opportunity and I soon realized that it was a brave little Green Heron who was doing his "hide and seek" routine with me. He sat there calmly for a few minutes while I shot him and only flew away when I tried to move a little bit closer.

With the flood conditions present I decided to head north on the ICW to the White Pelican's pool to see if the mudflats there would allow me access to their home. On the way up I could see dozens of White and Snowy Egrets out in the flats on either side of the ICW in search of food but once I reached the slough that leads into the flats where the Pelicans live I realized that the water levels were not quite high enough. I did manage to get into the slough and scared off dozens of Tri-Colors and Little Blues but soon realized that this was not going to be a fruitful adventure. From what I could see the Pelicans did not appear to be there anyway so I turned around and got back in the waterway and floated with the now outgoing tide toward the Kingfish Park.

Along the way I saw a lot of herons and egrets and managed to shoot some of the rebellious Black Bellied Plovers who seemed to have bred over the summer and were in the company of several immature plovers. Once I reached the Kingfish Park I spotted a pair of Oyster Catchers at the corner in the company of some yet unidentified ducks - the second time in as many trips that I have seen ducks at this spot.

By now the flooded marsh was flowing out and I had quite struggle fighting both the current and westerly breeze as I headed back. The sky above me was interesting though. It appeared as if I was directly below the outermost band of Hurricane Ophelia and the edge of the clouds was a beautiful feathery white which contrasting well with the deep blue sky which was clear to the south. The feathery clouds seemed to curve northward toward where Ophelia is sitting off the Carolina coast.

See the pictures from this trip

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9/13/05
Put-In :
Browns Creek
Destination : same
Time : 5:00 pm
Trip Length : 2 hrs (4 miles)
Temp : 90
Weather : clear, breezy
Water : light chop
Tide : incoming-outgoing
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons,  White Egrets, Kingfisher, Ospreys,
Green Herons, Black Crowned Night Herons, Yellow Crowned Night Herons and Anhinga

Yellow Crowned Night Heron on Browns Creek in the SJRPP run-off pond

I just can't resist these flood tides and so today I put-in at Browns Creek and headed west toward the SJRPP run-off pond hoping that the extra water would make for some interesting photo-ops.

I didn't anticipate how stiff the NW wind would be and the crossing over to the main island was rough even with the incoming tide. Once there, I was shielded somewhat and the waters were a bit calmer. I played hide and seek with a Green Heron before heading toward the western edge of the creek.

Hide and Seek

The extra water made some shortcuts available and I was able to paddle quickly into the pool. I made my way toward the spillway shoreline and immediately Night Herons began to make their presence known - "Wokking!" and flying out to the opposite bank. I managed to sneak up underneath a mature Yellow Crowned and an immature one and got some good shots of them peering at me from behind the branches. I stayed in the pool for quite a while circumnavigating it a couple of times. At one point, an Anhinga flew around the pool a couple of times but I wasn't able to get close to him.

Dragon Fly on Browns Creek

I exited the pool and took advantage of the high water to access the inlet to the south of the pond and got some good shots of the sun shining through the Spanish Moss. Finally, I turned and meandered my way through the middle islands in the chain and made my way back to the truck. When I got back I noticed that a very unusual looking dragon fly was sitting on the exact same branch that he had been sitting when I left two hours before. I got my camera back out to shoot him and began to wonder if he hadn't expired while sitting on the twig but he flew up briefly and lighted once again on the same spot. I guess he really liked the view.

See the pictures from this trip

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9/16/05
Put-In :
Simpsons Creek
Destination : Nassau Sound
Time : 11:00 am
Trip Length : 5 hrs (6.5 miles)
Temp : 90
Weather : clear, breezy
Water : light chop
Tide : outgoing-incoming
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons,  White Egrets, Ospreys,
Green Herons, Roseate Spoonbills, Reddish Egret, Snowy Egrets, Wood Storks, Oyster Catchers and Dolphins

Roseate Spoonbills on Simpsons Creek

We finally had a day off together where the weather and the tides cooperated so I took Hopey on a trip down Simpsons Creek. Someone else had launched a canoe ahead of us and had the former roadway down to the water blocked so it made our preparations that much tougher but we got in the water at 11:00 and headed out with a swift outgoing current.

The paddle was effortless and within a few minutes we were in the middle of the marsh and away from the sounds of civilization and enjoying the solitude. We didn't see much wildlife on the way out - the extra water made mid-tide seem a lot closer to high and so the bird life was scarce. We had just passed Half Moon Bluff and were on the final stretch of creek before the sound when I was thinking that I had never seen a Dolphin in this creek. Almost at that moment a pair surfaced directly in front of us and we paused to watch them head upstream.

Once we got into the sound we were a bit surprised to find several other kayakers already there. We started to head over to Black Rock to hang our hammocks but I decided to try to them at the tree I have been using lately. We managed to get them strung and decided to take a swim in the cool waters of the sound. While we were floating out there a pair of Dolphins came close by and could have been the pair we had just seen in Simpsons.

We ate lunch and then were surprised to get a call from our daughter Hannah out in California - she was waiting for a locksmith to let her back into her car. Anyway - we had an enjoyable time talking to her and eating lunch and then reading in our hammocks but we had things to do and so headed back.

I had noticed a lot of water in my boat when I reached the sound and when we got ready to head back I noticed that the fiberglass patch I had put on the stern had fallen off and the water that had been in the boat had all drained out so I wasn't sure how the trip back was going to go. There was nothing to do but try it - fortunately, Simpsons has good sandy banks the entire way and at low tide it would not be a problem to stop and bale.

As soon as I entered Simpsons I looked over to where Myrtle Creek joined Simpsons and saw that there was a Reddish Egret dancing in the shallows. I wanted to stop and shoot him but thought better of it. There was plenty of bird life along the banks all the way up and I managed a few good shots. Just before reaching the end I spotted a large group of White Herons near a sandbar and as I approached I could also see a hint of pink in the creek that fed in behind the bar. I alerted Hope and we stopped to watch the Spoonbills along with the Snowy Egrets, White Egrets and a lone Wood Stork.

Once back at the ramp I realized that I wasn't too far from swamping with all the water I had taken on so I have some major repair work to do.

See the pictures from this trip

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9/18/05
Put-In :
Cedar Point Creek
Destination : Cedar Point
Time : 6:45 am
Trip Length : 4.5 hrs (9.5 miles)
Temp : 75
Weather : calm. hazy
Water : glassy
Tide : incoming-outgoing
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons,  White Egrets, Ospreys,
Green Herons, Roseate Spoonbills, Anhingas, Snowy Egrets, and Dolphins

Osprey on Cedar Point Creek

I was anxious to try out my patch job and was up well before dawn and in the water about 30 minutes before sunrise. The full moon was setting to the west and disappeared into the haze about the same time that the sun broke through.

I made my way north stopping at the large sea daisy island at the confluence point and after shooting a Great Blue I ate breakfast. I continued on toward the point and once there I decided to explore some of the islands and streams west of the point - taking advantage of the extra water of the flood tides that are still in the area.

After an hour or so exploring this area I headed back south. As I approached the sea daisy island I could see that it was crowded with Herons and Egrets of all sorts. Every branch was occupied and there were several Tri-Colors in the grasses below. They all eventually flew away save a lone Tri-Color who didn't get the word so I paused to shoot him for a while.

As I was pushing off from the island to continue my return trip a dolphin came flying completely out of the water and then disappeared never to resurface. As I got close to my truck I spotted an Osprey sitting on the same tide monitoring pole that one had been sitting on when I was last here in July. There was barely any current and absolutely no wind so I very slowly drifted in on him and got some good shots as he flew away.

The best news is that my patch appeared to work well enough and only a small amount of water was in my boat at the end of a four and half hour paddle.

See the pictures from this trip

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9/22/05
Put-In :
Browns Creek
Destination : same
Time : 5:00 pm
Trip Length : 1.5 hrs (3 miles)
Temp : 85
Weather : Stormy,breezy
Water : rough
Tide : outgoing
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons,  White Egrets, Ospreys,
 Anhingas, Little Blue Herons, and Night Herons

Great Blue Heron on Browns Creek

This was going to be my only chance to get out after work this week so I ignored the dark skies and white caps on the Back River and set out on Browns Creek with a 16 mph SE breeze pushing me against the outgoing tide.

A cell of rain passed to the south as I head toward the main island but I only got a few drops of rain. I could see the trees were full of a variety of birds seeking shelter from the wind and as I approached the first tree hanging over the water I could see a Great Blue hunkered down with his back to me. A few Wood Storks were in the tall pines above the water and a few White Egrets on the trees below but with the wind and current fighting each other I didn't get many opportunities so I headed toward the runoff pond at SJRPP.

As I approached, several Night Herons came flying out and headed to the cove just south of the pond. I rounded the corner and entered the pond and could see an Anhinga sitting nearby but he spooked before I could get close. As always the trees near the spillway were full of Night Herons but no photo ops occurred and I headed back out to conclude my paddle.

On my way back I spotted an Great Blue sitting on one of my favorite trees - a palm that juts out at a 45 degree angle from the eastern bank of the main island and his silhouette made for some nice shots.

See the pictures from this trip

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9/25/05
Put-In :
Pumpkin Hill Creek
Destination : Tiger Point
Time : 8:00 am
Trip Length : 3.5 hrs (6.5 miles)
Temp : 73
Weather : clear
Water : glassy
Tide : outgoing-incoming
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons,  White Egrets, Ospreys, Ibis,
 Dolphins, Little Blue Herons, and Night Herons

Butterfly on Tiger Point

I was a little slow getting going this morning but I finally got in the water at Pumpkin Hill at 8:00 am. The water was glassy and the current slow going as the tide finished heading out. About halfway to the point I saw a large splash ahead of me and a large, dark shape flew out of the water. As I got closer I could see the dolphin's fin rising out of the water and I could hear the exhales. I followed the lone dolphin for quite a while but never seemed to get in position to get any shots. At one point I saw him head into a stream that I knew was too shallow for him and I followed. Soon afterwards I saw a ridge of water come racing past me as he headed back out to the channel.

I got to the point and wasn't all that surprised to see that it was empty of Spoonbills. I was surprised that I had not seen a single one feeding in the shallows on the trip out and I never saw one the entire day so I guess they were on a road trip. I continued on to the north and skirted the edge of the Edwards Flats for a while before returning to the point where I set up my hammock and ate breakfast. I took a walk in the woods and shot some spiders and butterflies. While I was shooting a Golden Orb spider I was getting nailed by Yellow Fly after Yellow Fly but was delighted to see that my presence had given the spider a meal. I could see him sucking on a juicy little bugger who was probably full of my own fluid. I guess that really is a symbiotic relationship - spider poses for photographer who attracts flies who feed spider - glad I could help.

While on the point I could look across to the flats and saw that it was full of hundreds if not thousands of Ibis who were feeding in the grass. At one point the entire group rose as a cloud into the air before settling back down elsewhere.

I set back out toward my put-in now that the tide had turned. A fairly stiff sea breeze had kicked up which slowed my progress but it was still and easy paddle. About halfway home I spotted ahead of me a sight I rarely see - more than one Great Blue Heron sitting on the bank. These normally very solitary birds occasionally will group up and I have seen as many as 8 together but today I counted at least 25 on a stretch of sand no more than 15 yards in length. I watched as about half of them rose up and then most of them returned to the same location. As I drifted toward them they left in smaller groups until finally they had all moved on.

The rest of the trip was easy and uneventful. Lots of shrimp flipping but none came into my boat this time.

See the pictures from this trip

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9/26/05
Put-In :
Hannah Mills
Destination : ICW
Time : 5:00 pm
Trip Length : 2 hrs (6 miles)
Temp : 90
Weather : clear
Water : glassy
Tide : outgoing
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons,  White Egrets, Ospreys, Black Crowned Night Herons, Green Herons, Northern Harriers, Mallards and Ruddy Turnstones

White Egret on the ICW

Iffy weather in the forecast for the rest of the week so I headed to Hannah to get in at least one more September paddle and push my mileage over 400 for the year.

The tide had just peaked out and the water levels are still above normal. There was a 10 mph sea breeze coming in as I headed north and then took my westerly route toward the island I have dubbed "Center Marsh Island" just east of the confluence of Hannah and Cedar. Just south of the island is a small branch that heads toward the ICW and after a few wrong turns I finally found the right stream and made my way toward the waterway.

It's a pleasant little stream and so small and remote that most people don't know about it which makes it very nice. About halfway to the waterway a Great Blue flew up and a few seconds later five Black Crowned Night Herons flew up one by one and began circling the marsh. I saw them light and a few minutes later I found out where but not before they were aware of my presence.

Once in the waterway I fought the wind a but had a pretty uneventful paddle south to the Kingfish Park. At the corner the ducks were there was usual but not much else. I paused to shoot some herons on the pilings of the old marina - the evening sun on the wind blown feathers made the normally dull white egrets look beautiful. I had a hard time negotiating the outgoing tide rushing under the pilings while the winds pushed me the other way.

Once back at my put-in I scared up the usual Night Herons and there was also an Anhingha that flew out frantically before returning.

See the pictures from this trip

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9/30/05
Put-In :
Simpsons Creek (A1A Bridge)
Destination : Nassau Sound
Time : 10:00 am
Trip Length : 6 hrs (7.5 miles)
Temp : 85
Weather : clear
Water : light chop
Tide : outgoing-incoming
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons,  White Egrets, Ospreys, Reddish Egrets, Oyster Catchers, Sandpipers Ruddy Turnstones and Skimmers

Reddish Heron on the Nassau Sound

Another four day weekend and another opportunity to cruise the outgoing tide with Hope to the Nassau Sound to veg out in our hammocks.

We got in the water at the A1A bridge ramp (yes, I still stubbornly refuse to accept the state's closing of this public access!) and caught the mid-outgoing tide on a glorious day. The trip out was relatively uneventful but peaceful and beautiful. We saw a couple of Great Blues chasing each other and a pair of Ospreys seemed to be fighting over a prime perch but it appeared that most of the activity was occurring beneath the surface of the water which was writhing with life and attracting the attention of the Ospreys..

Once we got to the sound we headed toward Black Rock Point to hang our hammocks, stopping along the way to shoot some Oyster Catchers, turnstones and a lone Reddish Heron who was sitting on the end of Little Talbot Island in the company of some Brown Pelicans, Seagulls, Terns and some immature Skimmers.

As we approached the beach where we wanted to set up we saw some Vultures sitting in some of the downed trees. Once we got out hammocks strung we walked over to see what they were feeding on and saw with some sadness that it appeared to be a dog.

We spent the next couple of hours swimming, eating, reading and vegging in our hammocks,. We waited until the water touched our boats once again before grudgingly setting back for home and that proved to be a wise move. The breeze had picked up but it was out of the SE and that combined with the current made our ride home pleasant and fairly easy .

I passed a couple of more Reddish on the way home. One was on an oyster bed along the Sound and the other was sitting in a tree above the campsite on Long Island that I visited over five years ago . I was reminded that it was on that camping trip it was the first time that I had seen or taken a picture of a Reddish - sitting in almost the exact same tree that he was sitting in now.

Osprey in Simpsons Creek

As we got closer to the ramp we began seeing five or six Ospreys circling and diving over a section of the creek ahead. Once we got to that part of the creek we were amazed to see what appeared to be five or six apparently immature Ospreys circle and dive in the same spot of the creek. I got some unexpectedly good actions shots of this scenario. Once we got to the ramp an Immature Osprey swooped in to perch on a lamppost above us with his catch.

See the pictures from this trip

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DISCLAIMER :  This web site is my own personal web site and does not express the opinions or views of any other person or organization. Use the information contained herein at your own risk. I do not attempt to represent myself as an expert in the matters of paddling or the outdoors. Note : There are many references to areas where I have noted as pleasant and inviting places to either picnic, camp or otherwise enjoy. Be aware that you do so at your own risk and any violation of trespass laws you do so at your own discretion. Please be respectful of both the environment and other people's property. Note : I find it really sad that I have to even include a statement like this!

 

 

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