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Paddling
Journal November 2008 Cool weather and a couple
weeks of vacation to enjoy it.
Trips this month: 11
Total trips this year: 91
Hours out this month: 41.5
Distance this month: 82.9 miles
Distance this year: 568.8 miles
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11/2/08
Put-In : Hannah Mills
Destination : same
Time : 9:45 am
Trip Length : 2 hrs (4.5 miles)
Temp : 70
Weather : clear, windy
Water : rough
Tide : incoming-outgoing
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons, Little Blue Herons,
King Fishers, Northern Harriers and White Pelicans
I woke up this morning to the sound of rain falling outside and since I knew
that there was a forecast of 60% for the rest of the day I resigned myself
to skipping my usual Sunday morning paddle. After making Hope breakfast and
sending her on the way to church, however, I noticed that the skies had
become increasingly clear so after a check of the radar to confirm that
nothing was impending I quickly loaded up and headed up the road.
I put in at Hannah Mills with the intention of heading up the ICW to the
Pelican Pool to see if the big birds had returned for the winter. Getting
out of my truck I was blasted in the face by at least a 15 mph wind pushing
whitecaps across the pool. I ignored it and labored across the open water
until I reached the sea daisy island but by that time I was pretty sure that
I would have to change my destination plans. I could see that the ICW was
already busy - full of senile Snowbirds heading south as well as sad, hung
over Bulldog fans heading north so by the time I reached the old cedar I
decided to stay away.
I decided to head up the parallel stream that runs north of the cedar and
then find the little stream that runs east-west from there to the island
that lies in the middle of the marsh. The little stream provided a nice,
calm respite from the wind and waves and I quickly made my way through it to
the area directly south of the island. I could see several White Pelicans
coming in over the marsh from the south and I watched as they gradually
dropped in altitude and then disappeared into their pool. I also watched as
a Northern Harrier swooped over the grass - one of the few birds that
actually enjoy a gale.
I headed back south toward the put-in and rode the wind pushed waves back to
the put-in. It was only two hours out and no pictures worth saving but it
was still nice to get out there.
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11/7/08
Put-In : Durbin Creek
Destination : Julington Creek
Time : 7:45 am
Trip Length : 7.5 hrs (14 miles)
Temp : 55
Weather : clear, calm
Water : glassy
Tide : incoming
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons, Little Blue Herons,
King Fishers, Wood Ducks, Pileated Woodpeckers, Wood Storks, Red Shouldered
Hawks, Deer, Raccoons and Alligators
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Young Gator on Durbin Creek |
I like to look back at my paddling journal as I begin a new month to see
where I was in the previous year at this time so today as I began a vacation
I decided to head back to the place I first explored a year ago - Durbin
Creek.
I arrived at the put-in beside the bridge on Race Track Road on a
foggy morning at about 7:30 and was on the water a few minutes later. I
decided to head upstream this time to see how far I could go. As the fog
began to lift I made my way through numerous snags while several Wood Ducks
began flushing from the flooded woods on either side of me.
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Fog lifting on Durbin Creek |
After a quarter of a mile I reached a spot the there was no easy way around
and after trying several different options I decided to head back
downstream. A year ago, I had a lot of difficulty going downstream due to
all of the fallen trees so with the water level down a bit I wasn't sure if
I would be able to go this direction either. I began to see places where
someone had obviously been through the area with a chain saw clearing many
of the obstructions I had encountered. Not far from the put-in, however, I
came to a large, freshly fallen tree and for a moment it looked like I was
stuck. I found a narrow path that looked as if someone had hacked through
with a hatchet and soon I was on my way.
Much like last year, I was amazed by the incredible colors as the giant
cypress trees that exist here were fully turned to red along with the sweet
gums and red maples. There was no evidence of human habitation save for the
constant roar from the many nearby thoroughfares. I didn't see much in the
way of wildlife as I made my way downstream on a slack current but the sound
of the Wood Ducks flushing and whistling from the flooded woods was almost
constant although it was nearly impossible to shoot them. I could also hear
the sounds of Pileated Wood Peckers and Red Shouldered Hawks but only rarely
glimpsed them.
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Tiger Swallowtail on Climbing Astor |
I passed through the area where the power lines pass over and shortly after
that I arrived at the place where a hiking trail comes down from Old St.
Augustine Road and I decided to walk up it until I reached an open, upland
field with roads going off to the east and west. I headed downstream and
soon reached the area where the docks begin to appear on the southern bank
and the creek begins to open up and flow toward Julington Creek and
eventually the St. Johns River. Since I had got such an early start I
decided to keep going to see if I could make all of the way to Julington
and soon I began to see my first Alligators on the day.
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Great Blue Heron on Julington Creek |
While the southern banks were lined with docks and, as I approached Julington,
actual houses right on the water, the north side was pristine due the fact
that it is mostly a hardwood swamp located between the two creeks. The creek
gradually got wider and wider and finally I could see the marina and bridge
on San Jose off in the distance and I knew I was in Julington Creek. I
paddled around the point and started to head upstream but I had reached my
pre-set time and decided to head back. The tide was coming in so my first
couple of miles upstream were easy with the current. My lack of human
sightings changed as I headed back as a boat full of people came up slowly
behind me. They asked if I had seen any Gators and told me that they were
going back to Ohio. I resisted the urge to tell them they were going the
wrong way and pulled over to let them pass.
I began to see a few more Gators myself as they began to crawl out to enjoy
the warmth of the mid-day sun. I passed the Ohioans an hour or so later -
the only other people I had seen that far up Durbin Creek in two trips. We
exchanged pleasantries and I headed on. Well past the half-way point I
spotted a deer walking through the woods and a few minutes later a Raccoon
but for the most part I shot only the butterflies enjoying the Climbing
Astor that lined the banks in large clumps. I reached the put-in after about
7 and half hours and 14 miles on the water.
See the pictures from this trip
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11/8/08
Put-In : Dutton Island Preserve
Destination : same
Time : 12:45 pm
Trip Length : 3.5 hrs (7.7 miles)
Temp : 75
Weather : clear, calm
Water : smooth
Tide : incoming
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons, Little Blue Herons,
Ospreys and Tri-Colored Herons
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The Wonderwood Bridge over the ICW
near Dutton Island |
Hope has been trying to work out a meeting with me and one of her friends
who has been on my web site as long as anyone - even when she was living in
the Pacific Northwest but it has never worked out. This weekend something
called the "Public Trust" was holding a "Kayak Race" at the Dutton
Island Preserve and so against my better judgment I agreed to participate.
After doing 14 miles on Durbin Creek and then getting little sleep the night
before I was hoping that Hope would change her mind - especially since her
friend had taken ill and the whole reason we were even doing this was no
longer valid.
It was a beautiful day and since Hope said she was going to do it whether I
came along or not I decided to pack the boats and a lunch thinking that we
would just launch and kind of fool around the area. After arriving at the island I
soon realized that we in amongst people I had little in common with - aside
from kayaking and the love of nature. I squeezed my rusty Dodge in between
the Obama/Biden stickered SUV's and unloaded our crappy, beat-up kayaks in
the middle of all of the nice new ones and proceeded to check-in and get our
goodies - a Tee Shirt and a laminated map of the area.
We had no intention of "racing" so after making sure it was OK to set out we
did so and paddled out to the ICW. The Dutton Island Preserve is lovely but
it is situated in a part of the ICW that is nothing like the Timucuan
Preserve. The sound of traffic coming from the Wonderwood bridge to the
north and the Atlantic Blvd Bridge to the south was almost constant. On
either side of the ICW there were houses built on the water including one
group that was obviously a bad case of "my house is bigger than yours - oh
yeah!?"
Anyway - since Hope had been here with her friend before we decided to do
what they had done on that day and simply paddle around the island and
explore the area while the other paddlers did their race. We paddled to the
north end of the island where the fishing pier is located and began looking
for a path back to the south. As we entered a stream that looked promising I
noticed that another kayakers was coming up behind us paddling very
intently. As we realized that we were in a dead-end I turned to the gal and
said "I sure hope you weren't following us cause we have no idea where we
are going." She looked at us with exasperation and muttered something about
looking for the canoe trail signs and turned around to head back the way she
came.
We continued looking for a path under the bridge but finally concluded that
we had either missed it or else it just wasn't there at this tide and
decided to head back to the path and follow the signs. According to the map
the trail went almost all of the way up to the Wonderwood Bridge before it
cut back to the ICW so we headed that way passing another kayaker who asked
us if we were racing. We said we "sorta were" and a few minutes later we
were passed by the first of the real racers - a guy in a surf ski who was
gliding through the water at a high rate of speed. He was soon followed by
about two dozen kayakers pounding the water with their paddles as they
futilely pursued the leader.
They all looked like they were having way too little fun for such a
beautiful day and we pulled over to let them pass and then followed them.
The racers all took a shortcut which we took as well and soon we were
rejoining the actual trail as the rest of the participants came up from the
east. We re-entered the ICW and found an island where we decided to pull off
and eat our lunch and drink our energy beers. We sat there eating and
relaxing while we watched the rest of the kayakers paddle by - some of them
giving us odd looks. We ignored them until a young man in a blue kayak came
by and stopped to chat. I quickly realized that he was the official "bring
up the rear guy" assigned to make sure no one got lost and so we packed up
and headed on.
We enjoyed chatting with him as we floated with current back toward the
preserve as we were rocked by the huge snow bird wakes. Once we got back to
the place where we had entered the ICW initially he indicated that he was
heading in there but if we wanted to actually do the whole route we had to
continue down to the Atlantic Blvd Bridge and follow the signs there back to
the preserve. I wanted to cut it short but Hope still wanted to go on so we
parted company and headed on. We found the trail - a long man made mosquito
control ditch that runs out from another park called Tideview Preserve.
We saw some other stragglers ahead of us but when we finally reached the end
we saw them coming back toward us announcing that they were lost. I could
tell what the problem was since the last two signs marking the trail were
confusing - with the one where we should have turned at point at
the one coming from the Tideview park. I explored the small canal behind the
park thinking that there might be a path through the neighborhood but
quickly concluded that it couldn't be the path.
When I returned to Hope and the other lost kayakers, I saw that our "bring
up the rear guy" was there waiting for us and told us the error of our ways.
He agreed that the sign was confusing and soon we were back on track heading
to the put-in where we were now actually NOT the last ones back. As we
unloaded, I commented to our guide that it must be like herding cats on
water but he said that he didn't mind as long as he was on the water - a
kindred spirit.
As we finished loading up, however, we heard some of the people running the
event talking about some people who "were actually out there eating lunch!"
and we both realized what a "fly in the ointment" the two of us had been.
While all of the "real" kayakers were out there following the rules we were
out there doing what we usually do - wandering around and getting lost and
having fun doing it. I guess that's the difference between us paddlers on
the north side of the river the these south siders - We don't need no
stinking signs!
Anyway - we had a good time together and that was the point and even though
I paddled a lot more than I had planned - nearly 8 miles, I felt better than
if I had stayed home watching football and drinking beer. We took the ferry
back to the redneck side of the river and decided to sit on the patio of the
Sand Dollar and drink beer and eat fried shrimp as we watched the sun set. A
great way to end the day.
See the pictures from this trip
Back to Top
11/9/08
Put-In : Pumpkin Hill
Destination : Tiger Point
Time : 7:45 am
Trip Length : 3.5 hrs (5.9 miles)
Temp : 45
Weather : clear, breezy
Water : choppy
Tide : outgoing
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons, Little Blue Herons,
Great Egrets, Ospreys, Yellow Legs, Bald Eagles, Otters, Tri Colored Herons
and Dolphins
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Otter on Pumpkin Hill Creek |
I really didn't think I would go out for a third straight day but since I'm
off for the week I decided that I could take Monday off from paddling and
hang out with Hope and paddle today while she was at church.
I got going late but was on the water about a quarter till 8 at mid-tide.
There were already several people on the water - I guess the recent article
about the state possibly closing the park has sparked some interest. I
headed over to the small island opposite the put-in to see if anyone was
perching there. As I made my way over I spotted the first of what I like to
call the Pumpkin Hill Trifecta - an otter. He was exploring the grassy banks
but when he spotted me he lifted his head out of the water and began
huffing.
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Wood Stork |
He soon disappeared and seeing no one was at the island I headed on toward
the trails. I rounded the bend and seeing the trees at the little point full
I entered the marsh there and glided under the tree where several Great
Egrets and a lone Wood Stork were perching. I shot them until the Egrets
flushed but the Stork was content to stay while I ate my breakfast. As I
re-entered the main channel I was met by the second of the Pumpkin Hill
Trifecta - a pair of Dolphins. I shot them for a while and them paddled down
to my shrimping spot and entered the small creek there. As I paddled up
toward Black Hammock I spotted a pair of Hooded Mergansers - the first
sighting of these birds who winter here. I was heading back out to the main
channel when I spotted the final segment of the Trifecta - an immature Bald
Eagle. Seeing any of those three critters make a day on Pumpkin Hill
worthwhile and seeing all three is especially nice.
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Dolphin on Pumpkin HIll |
I made my way to the point as another pair of Dolphins swam in front of me
and then entered Edwards Creek. I had brought my net and some ice with me
just in case the shrimp were still running and I had seen a few on the way
down. As I approached my new spot I saw nothing and almost made decision to
head back but I decided to try my luck anyway. My first cast brought in a
single big one and a few casts later I had five or six in my net. I kept at
it for the next hour and managed to bring in three dozen or so before I
decided to pack it in and head home.
I had an easy paddle back against the last of the outgoing tide and passed
several more kayakers on the way down. When I arrived at the put-in however
I was shocked to find over a dozen vehicles scattered about the area and as
I packed up I realized that there were 7 or 8 people scattered about the
area doing water color scenes of the marsh. I packed up and headed home to
clean some shrimp and watch some football.
See the pictures from this trip
Back to Top
11/11/08
Put-In : Okefenokee Swamp (King Fisher Landing)
Destination : same
Time : 7:45 am
Trip Length : 5 hrs (8.7 miles)
Temp : 45
Weather : clear, breezy
Water : smooth
Tide : n/a
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons, Wood Ducks, Warblers,
Pileated Woodpeckers, Red Shouldered Hawks, Eastern Phoebes and Otters
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Otter checking me out near King
Fisher Landing in the Okefenokee Swamp |
I debated for a long time about my destination for today but, ultimately the
weather forecast which called for brisk winds on the coast sent me inland to
the Okefenokee Swamp to check out Kingfisher Landing and see if the high
water levels would make that location a better place to paddle than the last
time Hope and I were here a year ago.
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Warbler |
I was at the landing and in the water a little after 9. There was a large
flock of Robins around the ramp - more than I usually see at this time of
the year. I headed west down the canal passing through the area where the
damage from the fire of 2007 was still very evident even though signs of new
growth were everywhere. There were few signs of wildlife as I headed down to
the place where the Red Trail and Green Trail split but as I entered the Red
Trail and began paddling in a NW direction I began to flush out several
small groups of Wood Ducks from the overhanging small trees that line the
trail. There was also a small Warbler type bird flitting in and out from the
berry laden trees which I believe may have been a Yellow Rumped.
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Hooded Merganser pair |
As I continued on, the air in front of me suddenly was filled with hundreds,
if not thousands of Swallows that seemed to be hovering around the bushes
and small trees. As I watched the sky was literally obscured by these small
black and white birds that flew a few feet above my head and then to the
east as they ascended. The path wound its way through many cypress islands
that were now completely turned rust red and starting to drop their needles
in the water. I came upon a pair of ducks that didn't flush which I assumed
were more Wood Ducks. I soon realized that they were Hooded Mergansers but
that made their refusal to flush even odder since in this area they never
let me get close. They calmly swam in front of me as we rounded a bend and
then finally flew off.
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Wood Ducks |
Later I idid come upon some Wood Ducks that I was able to shoot for a while
and once they flew off I noticed something slithering into the water from
the grass. I assumed that it was my first Gator sighting of the day but when
I whiskered face surfaced I realized that it was an Otter. It raised it's
head out of the water to look at me and then began swimming directly toward
my kayak while I shot away. He got within three feet of my boat and then
disappeared. I waited to see if he would surface and begin huffing at me but
he never did and so I made my way on down the trail.
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Eastern Phoebe |
I finally reached a place where the cypress islands seemed to disappear and
the trail started to close in on me. It was still navigable but getting a
little more difficult with the increased vegetation in the water so I
decided to turn around. After looking at my route later I wish that I had
continued on for another mile and come to a pair of lakes called Double
Lakes. I headed back just shy of noon and pretty much saw more of the same -
no Gators or Sand Hill Cranes but around nearly every bend I could count on
at least three or four Wood Ducks and was able to approach them carefully
enough to get some good shots.
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Male Hooded Merganser |
There were also lot's of Eastern Phoebes in the area and, as always, I enjoy
watching them sit above the water and then diving to the surface to snatch
insects. At one point, a Phoebe dove to the surface of the water and came
out with a strange looking worm which he proceeded to eat as I sat shooting.
I arrived back at the ramp and as I paddled up the canal I spotted another
pair of Hooded Mergansers and so I carefully approached. Once again, I was
able to get quite close until I was just 15 yards away. Suddenly, they both
disappeared and I thought they had flown off while they were obscured by a
bush. The male suddenly surface from the water a few yards away from my boat
and began swimming back and forth in front of me. The reason became evident
when his mate suddenly surfaced next to my boat and then flew away to the
west in a flurry.
The male kept my attention on him and I obliged by getting the best photos
of a Merganser that I have ever gotten before. Finally, he flew off over my
head and joined his mate down the canal and I paddled over to the ramp and
headed home.
See the pictures from this trip
Back to Top
11/15/08
Put-In : Suwannee River (Dowling Park)
Destination : 4.5 miles upstream
Time : 8:30 am
Trip Length : 4.5 hrs (8.7 miles)
Temp : 70
Weather : rainy, breezy
Water : smooth
Tide : n/a (Gage Height - 52.12, Flow - 337 cfs)
Wildlife of Note : Wood Ducks, Pileated Woodpeckers, Spotted
Sandpipers, Eastern Phoebes and Black Vultures
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Limestone and roots along the
Suwannee River |
Hope had something to do at Camp Weed this weekend so to wrap up our
vacation week I decided to join her and spend the night at the Inn and then
spend Saturday paddling in the area while she did her work at the camp.
Unfortunately, the weather forecast for the weekend called for a 40 to 60
percent chance of thunderstorms just about everywhere in the area so my
initial plans to head up to Billy's Lake in the Okefenokee seemed a little
much especially if it was going to rain all day. I began looking at my maps
and since the radar indicated that the precipitation would be heading slowly
north and east I decided to head a few miles west and put-in at Dowling Park
and paddle one of the remaining sections of the "C" in the Suwannee River
that we had not paddled.
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The Advent Christian Village River
Camp at Dowling Park |
As I pushed away from the shore, a light rain began to fall and I wasn't
sure if I would be out on the water for very long. I pulled on my fleece and
began paddling upstream against a current that was considerably less than
what it was in early September when Hope and I made our 3 day excursion. I
paddled around the first bend and spotted a tall walkway coming down from a
bluff where the Advent Christian retirement community of Dowling Park is located. A Suwannee
River Trail sign was attached to it indicating that it was part of the river
camp
system and showed that lodging was available. I had read that Dowling Park
was a part of the system and the sign confirmed it although I'm
not sure what exactly is available or how to make reservations. Since it was
raining, I decided to not try to walk up and explore the area and continued
on upstream.
The first mile of the trip winds around a couple of sharp bends as the river
flows around the Dowling Park community with the buildings of the medical
center looming above the bluffs but soon I was out of sight of the any
buildings and paddling along a stretch of river with limestone formations on
one side and a steep sandy bank on the other. The rain soon stopped but the
day remained dark and dreary and even though I could see that the fall
colors were in full bloom it was hard to really enjoy them. This section of
the river is generally very straight with only some very long bends to break
it up but about a mile upstream I noticed a creek emptying into the river on
the western bank.
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Entrance to the Mill Creek Quarry |
I pulled into the creek that had steep limestone walls on one side and a
bare flat bank on the other that looked very unnatural. I paddled about a
half mile upstream where the creek opened up into a couple of large pools
and I began to think that this had the appearance of an old quarry - a fact
that I later confirmed. The creek is called Mill creek and seemed to go much
further up into the woods but I decided to turn back and continue my trip
upstream.
After another mile, houses began to appear on each side of the river
which lasted for the next couple of miles. I paddled by a couple of small unnamed
springs and as I passed what seemed to be the last of the houses I had
reached my turn around time and decided to stop at the last and largest of
the springs to eat my lunch.
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Unnamed Spring |
The trip back was, of course, much easier and I was soon back in sight of
Dowling Park. There was an incredible number of Black Vultures gathered in
the trees and along the banks who seemed to eye me hungrily as I floated
past them. I assured them that I was NOT a part of the retirement community
and they left me alone. I was going to stop at the walkway to explore what
was available above but as I got close a cold wind began blowing down the
river and the skies darkened so I decided to head back to my truck and check
it out from the road.
As I began loading up my truck, a local hunter came down the ramp to train
his Golden Lab by tossing a float out in the river. It was fun to watch the
exuberance of the young dog as he leaped into the river to retrieve the float. He
was very good at retrieving but not so good at actually bringing the prize
back to his master as he wanted to run back and forth along the bank before
he finally gave it up.
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Red Cypress at the Charles Spring
Run |
I headed into Dowling Park and did a little more exploring but couldn't
really get a good handle on what I was seeing from the river so I guess I
will have to call the SRWMD office and ask how to make reservations there.
On my way back to Live Oak I saw a sign for Charles Springs and decided to
check out the place where Hope and I ate lunch back in July when we
paddled from Dowling Park back to Blue Springs. The spring, which was not
flowing back then, was now flowing a little and the area was beautiful with
the Cypress trees sporting their fall colors.
It wasn't exactly the day I had planned but it was still a good day on the
water and that beats most things I could do on a Saturday afternoon.
See the pictures from this trip
Back to Top
11/19/08
Put-In : Browns Creek
Destination : same
Time : 4:45 pm
Trip Length : 1 hrs (1.6 miles)
Temp : 50
Weather : clear, calm
Tide : outgoing
Wildlife of Note : Great Egrets, Snowy Egrets, Little Blue Herons,
Great Blue Herons, Wood Storks and Tri-Colored Herons
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Tri-Colored Heron on Browns Creek at
sunset |
As I headed toward home on this brisk late fall day I debated as to whether
or not I should bother to pop my boat in the water for a quick paddle. The
temperatures the night before had dropped into the upper 20's and the high
today barely got into the 50's while a NE breeze blew all day.
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Osprey |
As I crossed the Browns Creek bridge, I had all but decided to head home but
as I glanced across the glassy waters toward the big island I could see the
trees were full of Egrets and the stack and cooling towers at SJRPP were
going straight up in the dark blue winter sky. I hit my brakes and pulled
into the empty put-in and was quickly on my way against the outgoing tide. I
love the light at this time of the year I just wish I had more time to enjoy
it. The crisp cold air made the sky a wonderful shade of pure blue
while the already setting sun was bathing an orange glow on the grasses and
trees of the marsh.
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Great Egrets glowing in the sunset |
As I approached the island I could see that in the big oak tree located on
the SE corner an Osprey and Great Blue Heron were residing there as they
almost always are when I paddle here. I shot them for a while and then when
they flushed I headed toward the southern edge of the island toward the
trees full of plump white fruit. I was able to shoot a very photogenic
Tri-colored Heron with the sun glowing on the Spanish moss behind him. The
plumage of the Great Egrets was being turned a light orange as the sun began
to disappear behind Northside Generating Station and they began croaking
noisily as I passed underneath them.
I rounded the bend on the west end of the island briefly but with the sun
now at the horizon I turned around and made another pass by the Egrets and
cruised the rest of the way home.
See the pictures from this trip
Back to Top
11/24/08
Put-In : Pumpkin Hill
Destination : Tiger Point
Time : 7:00 am
Trip Length : 6.5 hrs (13.9 miles)
Temp : 40
Weather : clear, calm
Water : glassy
Tide : incoming-outgoing
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons, Little Blue Herons,
Great Egrets, Ospreys, Yellow Legs, Hooded Mergansers, Black Crowned Night
Herons, Tri Colored Herons,
Wood Storks, White Pelicans and Ruddy Ducks
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Ruddy Ducks on Pumpkin Hill |
Everyone had plans today so I packed up and headed to Pumpkin Hill. I was in
the water a few minutes before sunrise and about an hour before peak high
tide. It was a chilly, calm day and the water was glassy as I set out from
the put-in and paddled through the marsh directly across from the launch
point. I cut through the grass and circled around by the island near Black
Hammock.
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Young Hog |
No one was perching there so I headed back to the main channel and began
paddling toward the trails. I shot an Osprey for a while and then cut into
the marsh just beyond the trails to see who was perching in the trees there.
Only a few Egrets were there and they flushed before I could get close but
as I sat there I heard a rustling in the grass along the shoreline.
Suddenly, three or four young hogs cam walking out of the woods and jumped
down to the shoreline where they began rooting around for shellfish. A
larger black one came into the clear and stared at me for a couple of
seconds before letting loose with a loud grunt or bark. At that. the whole
group scampered up the bank and disappeared noisily into the woods. As I
returned the main channel I ran across a small flock of Ruddy Ducks whom I
followed for quite a while. The Hooded Mergansers were out in force on this
day and it seemed as if around every bend and in every little nook were
dozens of them. Of course, they always flushed well before I could get any
good shots but it didn't stop me from trying.
I continued on to the point and after eating breakfast I decided to head up
Edwards Creek and paddle around Tiger Point as far as I could up the little
creek that runs along the trails on the west side of the park. By the time I
reached the stream that empties into the southern bank of Edwards Creek the
tide had turned and I had to fight a strong current as I paddled by the homes
on Betz Landing. Once beyond the houses, the creek winds its way madly
through the marsh cutting back and forth on itself as it heads east toward
the road that intersects the park.
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Orb Weaver Spider at the point |
I checked out a couple of potential campsites along the way and was amazed
at how deep the stream was and how much water was pouring out from the
marsh. I wondered if there wasn't a spring located somewhere deep in the
marsh or in the woods. It is quite different than the small streams on the
south side of Cedar Point road as, normally, one this narrow would eventually become
shallow and impassable but this one never did. I finally got to the point
where the needle rushes were blocking the path and even though I could have
pushed my way further, I decided to turn around while I still had the room.
The rushing current carried me swiftly out toward Edwards Creek and then
toward Tiger Point. As I floated along with the current about a dozen White
Pelicans soared a few feet over my head and landed back in the direction I
had just come from. As I got close the point a pair of them came swimming
out from the marsh and headed up the creek.
The rest of the trip was easy and uneventful as I made my way back against
the last of the outgoing tide. Before heading back home, I stopped at the new
Preservation Project site across Cedar Point Road from Pumpkin Hill. It has
an odd little family cemetery off to the side as well as several miles of
hiking trails that lead down to the branch of Cedar Point creek that I like
to paddle up to. The following day, Hope and our daughter Hannah took the
dogs for a five mile hike down to the end and had a great time.
See the pictures from this trip
Back to Top
11/26/08
Put-In : Okefenokee Swamp (Folkston Entrance)
Destination : same
Time : 10:15 am
Trip Length : 4 hrs (8.1 miles)
Temp : 40
Weather : clear, breezy
Water : smooth
Tide : n/a
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons, Wood Ducks, Common
Yellow Throats, Red Shouldered Hawks, Eastern Phoebes, Sand Hill Cranes,
Ibis, Great Egrets and Alligators
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The McCharen Family Gator watching
in the Okefenokee |
The long awaited McCharen family excursion into the Okefenokee Swamp finally
got under way after a year's delay due to my health. I borrowed a tandem
kayak from a co-worker so that we wouldn't have to use the Ocean Kayak in
what was sure to be a chilly morning and that turned out to be a good
decision when I woke up to temperatures in the low 30's. We got all four
boats loaded up and had our food and gear packed into the two vehicles and
were on the road a little after 8:30.
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Great Blue Heron along the canal |
We had to pick up our other daughter, Jenny, at the farm she is living at on
the west side and so we decided to take the southern route to the Okefenokee
taking Florida 121 up to St. George and then Georgia 121 the rest of the way
to the park. We were checked in and on the water a little after 10 and after
pausing for a rare family photo on the water we decided to head down the
canal on our way out.
It was peaceful and beautiful and I was especially happy to see that the
cypress trees still had their rust colored needles although the water was
beginning to become clogged with them. Hannah and Jenny took the tandem
while Andrew took my beat up old Poke Boat that had the patch he had applied
to it three years earlier. I enjoyed hanging back with Hope and watching the
three of them having a good time paddling and gabbing as we headed down
toward the split.
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Our first Gator on the day |
As has been the case lately, the high water levels meant that there would be
little to see until we reached the path into the prairies. I could hear the
distant call of some Sand Hill Cranes but aside from a few Great Blues
perching above the water we saw nothing until we turned into the trail to
Grand Prairie. Not far down that trail I spotted a six foot Gator laying
just off the path and we paused to watch him before heading on. The trumpet
of the Cranes suddenly became quite close and we began to see some of them
rise from the prairie to the west of us.
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Sand HIll Cranes in the prairies |
We reached the turn and began paddling to the west toward Monkey Lake. As we
did, the yodel of the Cranes got closer and closer until when we were about
to the turn back to the canal I spotted the heads of a few of them along the
path. I stopped and waited for everyone to catch up so that I could point
them out and let them know that as soon as we made the turn that we would
probably cause them to flush. That happened on schedule as about a dozen of
the big birds waited until we got in the clear and then took off in a loud
flurry.
As we paddled up the path toward the canal we would occasionally see them on
either side of us in groups of two or three. We passed by a pair of Red
Shouldered Hawks and what may have been a young Eagle who was too far away
from us to get a positive ID. As we approached the canal, I spotted a large
Gator laying out on a muddy bank and we all paused to have a good look at
him before heading on. Once back in the canal we continued on around to the
cut and then headed back east through the dark overhanging cypress.
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The paddling McCharens |
We arrived at the bathroom platform and decided to take a bathroom and
picnic break there before heading on. After some discussion, we decided to
head back via the Day Use Canoe Trail and once back at the split we turned
into it. As soon as I entered the trail I saw a lone Great Blue on one side
of it and a lone Crane on the other. The Crane quickly flew off but the
Heron simply stood there staring at us as we passed by.
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Baby Gator along the Day Use Canoe
Trail |
I kept my eyes peeled for activity beneath the flooded bushes that line the
path and after a while I spotted the ridged pattern of a tail in the water. At first I
thought it was just a branch but soon I spotted a pair of large brown eyes
staring at me and I could see a very young Gator in the water. I pointed it
out to the family and then moved out of the way and started to head down the
path. I heard the kids say that they were seeing a couple of more little
Gators in the same area and so I paddled back to shoot the other babies
before they plopped into the water.
We paddled the rest of the way back to the put-in without seeing much else
and then loaded up and headed over to the picnic area to have our lunch. We
all agreed it was a great day out on the water - long overdue but well worth
the wait.
See the pictures from this trip
Back to Top
11/29/08
Put-In : Hannah Mills
Destination : Pelican Pool
Time : 6:20 am
Trip Length : 3.5 hrs (7.2 miles)
Temp : 50
Weather : clear, breezy
Water : choppy
Tide : incoming
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons, Hooded Mergansers,
Marsh Wrens Ospreys, Great Egrets, Little Blue Herons, Snowy Egrets, Tri-Colored
Herons, White Pelicans, Ibis, Wood Storks, Pied Billed Grebe and Peregrine
Falcons
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Dropping in |
Our daughter Hannah had an early flight back to LA and with the weather
turning nasty later in the weekend I decided to make a rare excursion on the
water on a Saturday morning. I considered heading north to the Kingfisher
entrance of the Okefenokee Swamp but decided to stay close to home and take
advantage of being up well before sunrise.
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Day break over Hannah Mills |
I was in the water at 6:20 - about 40 minutes before the sun was due to rise
with just enough light on the horizon to see where I was going. I paddled
out of the big pool and headed toward the old cedar. I could see a Great
Blue perching there along with a smaller bird that looked like it might be a
Peregrine Falcon but they both flew off before I could get close. I had
already eaten, so I bypassed the cedar and continued up the parallel feeder
streams to the north.
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A mass of white |
My destination, of course, was the Pelican Pool since it would be my first
chance this winter to check and see if my big buddies had checked in for the
season. By 7:30, I had reached the island that lies along the ICW in front of
the pool. As soon as I exited my boat, I could tell that the population of
the pool had swelled from it's summer occupancy of a dozen or so to what
Iater counted from my photos as over 200.
As I walked across the mudflat a dozen more Pelicans came soaring in from
the east and circled the pool a couple of times as they tried to find a
place to land.
Most of the Pelicans were standing on the spit of land near the southern
shoreline doing their morning routine of grooming themselves as they stood
in the bright morning sun. Whether it was the sight of me walking across the
flats or the newcomers dropping in, the entire group suddenly began to plop
into the water and start swimming across the pool. I continued on until I
reached the edge of the water and then sat down on my life jacket that I had
brought with me. The huge flock continued swimming back and forth across the
pool and they eyed me carefully as I sat shooting them. As I did, more groups
of the big birds would occasionally come flying in from different directions
to join the flock.
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Waiting for clearance to land |
I noticed a new addition to the pool since I had last been here - someone had
done what I have wanted to do since I first discovered the pool many years
ago and placed palm fronds in several locations along the edge of the pool
in what appear to be for blinds. I can't imagine why they would be there
otherwise and I wonder if it was someone who visits this web site and read
of my intentions to do so. They are all located on the western side of the
pool which means they would be difficult to get to so I may still build one
on the eastern side of the pool.
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Hooded Mergansers |
As I sat there watching the Pelicans swim back and forth in front of me, I
noticed that they were gradually moving closer and closer to the spit of
land they had exited earlier. About six of them hopped out of the water and
began grooming themselves but some movement from me must have spooked them
and they only stayed a few minutes before rejoining their friends back in
the water. There were several Hooded Mergansers in the water playing around
and since I was partly hidden in the grass and staying relatively still they
soon came out from around one of the clumps of grass and were just a few
feet away from me.
I shot them as they calmly sat there grooming themselves as they swam a few
feet away from me and finally disappeared behind the same grass island they
had come from. As I sat there, I could tell that the wind was starting to
pick up and I knew the Snowbird traffic would soon start to increase on the
waterway so I decided to head back home. I managed to dodge the worst of the
big wakes from the motor yachts heading south and saw very little on my way
back to the put-in.
See the pictures from this trip
Back to Top
11/30/08
Put-In : Browns Creek
Destination : same
Time : 4:00 pm
Trip Length : .5 hrs (1.4 miles)
Temp : 60
Weather : stormy, breezy
Water : choppy
Tide : outgoing
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons, Great Egrets, Little Blue Herons, Snowy Egrets, Tri-Colored
Herons, Ibis, Wood Storks and Little Blue Herons
I thought I was done with paddling in November until I made a trip to Gander
Mountain this morning to check out their big Thanksgiving Day sale. I had
been alerted by one of my Naturalist classmates that some of their boats
were half priced and so I wanted to see if the Old Town Dirigo 120 that I
had been eyeing was included.
It was and so I left the store $300 poorer but with one more boat to add to
the McCharen Armada strapped to my truck. Of course, the huge storm that was
moving into the area broke as I was driving away from the store so when I
got the boat home I dumped the water out and sat impatiently inside waiting
for a break in the weather. Hope pulled up during a lull in the storm as I
was outside playing with it and saw me grinning sheepishly as I stood beside
my new purchase. I walked over and informed her that I had done all of her
Xmas shopping for her and pointed at the kayak which she had not seen.
It didn't take much convincing her that I had made a good decision,
especially since there was a 30 day return policy on boats but as the rain
started to fall again we had to take refuge indoors. I pretty much resigned
myself to waiting for another day before I could get it in the water but as
the afternoon wore on I noticed a break in the rain bands and since the boat
was already strapped on I grabbed my keys and headed up the road to Browns
Creek.
Incredibly, I wasn't the only nut out on this day although it seemed like I
was the only one actually on the water. There were three or four people
fishing from the bridge who looked at me as though I was crazy as I paddled
under it and headed toward the big island. It was probably a poor test for
the tracking abilities of the boat since a strong wind was coming out of the
SW against an outgoing tide. The boat is a bit wider than my Montour which
made it a little stodgy in its handling but the good side of that is the
fact that the cockpit felt a lot roomier and I was able to easily get my
legs out. The seat is extremely comfortable with nice adjustment knobs and
the foot pegs are easy to adjust. The front and rear decks are flatter than
my Montour which should make strapping things to them better.
The main thing I was concerned about, of course, was the tracking and the
wind and current made it difficult to gage but once I got into some more
sheltered waters I tested it out. It's not perfect but I could tell that it
is immensely better than the Montour although the real test will come when I
bring my gear along and try to float in on some birds. There were plenty of
them about feeding at low tide but even if I had brought my camera along I
wouldn't have been able to get any shots since it was so dark and a light
rain was almost constant while I was out.
So far so good.
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