This is the second year of my journal and by now I had a better idea of what I wanted to do with the site and I starting including a lot more information about the conditions of the weather and water on each trip. I increased the number of journal entries - from 23 to 33 although I probably still didn't include every trip.
I started to emphasize photography more and more and felt comfortable with taking my Nikon film camera out more and more. Still, the quality is pretty poor but good things were soon to come.
Some of the highlights of the year was Hope's first couple of camping trips with me and our first trip on the Suwannee River. 9/11 happened this year, I had some time on the road for work the week following which was not fun. My mom passed away in late November but I was able to use some money from her estate to buy my first Fuji digital camera - the 6900. I didn't realized it at the time but that was a significant purchase that soon changed the emphasis of this site.
| 1/2/01 | Garden Creek | 1/8/01 | Cedar Point |
| 1/15/01 | Browns Creek | 1/26/01 | Ft. George River |
| 1/29/01 | Mud River | 2/12/01 | Cedar Point Creek |
| 3/22/01 | Haulover Creek | 3/26/01 | Clapboard Creek |
| 4/6/01 | Ft. George River | 4/9/01 | Haulover Creek |
| 4/13/01 | Bogey Branch | 4/15/01 | Cedar Point |
| 4/16/01 | Ft. George River | 4/18/01 | Browns Creek |
| 5/2/01 | Hannah Mills | 5/4/01 | ICW Camping |
| 5/24/01 | FGR Camping | 6/11/01 | Cedar Point Creek |
| 6/19/01 | Hannah Mills | 7/9/01 | Ft. George River |
| 8/13/01 | ICW | 8/20/01 | Ft. George River |
| 8/22/01 | Ft. George River | 8/24/01 | Ft. George River |
| 10/01/01 | Ft. George River | 10/13/01 | Suwannee River |
| 10/21/01 | Cedar Point Creek | 10/23/01 | Browns Ceek |
| 10/26/01 | ICW Camping | 10/29/01 | Cedar Point Creek |
| 11/19/01 | Cedar Point Creek | 11/26/01 | Ft. George River |
| 12/20/01 | Browns Creek |
01/02/01
Put-In : Garden Creek (West Side of Ft. George Island)
Time : 11:30 a.m.
Temp : 34
Weather : Clear
Water : Choppy
Tide : Incoming
I decided to put in at a new place - Garden Creek, on the northwest side of Ft. George Island. It's a small creek that runs under the road on the west side of the island and runs out to the Intracoastal a few yards away from where the Ft. George River joins the waterway. It was by far the coldest day I have ever attempted to paddle in but since I had taken the week off and the weather wasn't going to get much warmer so I bundled up and hit the water.
It's not a great place to put in - kind of shallow and muddy at low tide and I definitely wanted to put in with the tide incoming since it was a new route for me to explore. I headed out and got into the main channel pretty quickly, heading into a pretty stiff biting NW wind. The west side of Ft. George is one of the hardest areas to explore since it is so shallow and the streams often fool you into thinking you are in the main channel when you are not. As I headed out, I paid particular attention to landmarks as I progressed because with the weather conditions, I did not want to get lost. I finally made it to place where Garden Creek made it's final turn and headed out into the Intracoastal. At that point, I noticed some old fence posts heading out from the island near the Kingsley Plantation into the marsh.
I found heading back to be a lot easier than I expected and surprisingly, I didn't take a single wrong turn. As I got close to my put-in I decided to explore some of the areas near the island and found some very interesting features. I had noticed on Terraserver that there appeared to be a channel of some kind that traced the NW corner of the island. I was able to find the entrance to one of these channels and followed it deep into the interior of the island. It appears to be a drainage channel of some kind but I'm not sure from what period of history it was built. I will have to ask our friend Lauri DeGaris who is a biologist/historian familiar with the Island's history. The rest of the trip was uneventful. My cold weather clothing worked well, my fingers were cold starting out but warmed up as the day went along. At the end my feet got pretty cold but the rest of me stayed warm and dry.
01/08/01
Put-In : Cedar Point Creek (Heckscher Dr.)
Time : 6:30 a.m.
Temp : 51
Weather : Partly Cloudy
Water : Smooth to Rough
Tide : Incoming
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This was my last day of Christmas vacation and after one of the longest stretches of cold weather in these parts, it finally started to get warm. I headed around the corner to my Cedar Point put-in and decided to go out pre-dawn and take some sunrise pics and then head over to Pinders Island. I got to a spot about halfway to Clapboard Creek and stuck my stern in the grass and waited for the sunrise. After taking several pictures of the approaching dawn I was getting ready to break out my coffee when I saw several dolphins approaching. There looked to be 8-12 of them and they were unaware of my presence. They were in a feeding frenzy similar to the one I saw last summer at Brown's Creek and one of them came completely out of the water - leaping straight up in the air until he was completely out of the water and then nosed back in. At one point, several gulls hovered near where they were splashing about and grabbed what appeared to be a ribbon fish out of the water. They were unaware of me because I was stuck in the grass but as soon as I moved to get in a better position, they heard me and the next thing I knew several fins were heading my way to investigate. I saw the water boil beside my boat and a couple surfaced so close that I had trouble focusing my camera. After about 30 mins, they moved on and I could see them heading up Cedar Point Creek to the north.
From there I went on to Pinders Island and got out at the landing by the house. I walked up the causeway to the road and over to the observation point for the eagles nest. As I was walking back I noticed a massive amount of robins flying about the island and realized that that is one bird you don't see very often in these parts. They must winter down here or at least fly through here on their migratory routes.
The trip back was a little rough. The wind had really picked up and I crossed some of the roughest water ever getting back. It really shows you how quickly the weather can change out in the marsh. The water went from glassy smooth to two foot swells in less than an hour.
01/15/01
Put-In : Browns Creek
TIme : 9:00 am
Temp : 45
Weather : Heavy Fog
Water : Smooth
Tide : Incoming
I put-in at Browns Creek in the heaviest fog I have ever paddled in. It was eerie paddling in pea soup so thick that I couldn't make out any of the landmarks that I was used to. It was almost dream-like. At times all I could see was the fog and the water. It enabled me to sneak up on a lot of bird-life and we'll see if the pics turn out. At one point when the fog looked like it was getting thicker, it suddenly cleared and within five minutes it was almost completely gone. Weird. One further note, I saw a white pelican which means that they have returned to winter here like they did last year. I only saw one and didn't get close enough to get a good picture.
01/26/01
Put-In : Ft. George River (Alimacani)
Time : 4:45 pm
Temp : 50
Weather : Clear
Water : Smooth
Tide : Incoming
We found out this week that the State Parks Department is closing one of our
favorite put-ins - the boat ramp behind the Ribault Country Club ( more on
this later ) and so I decided to put in at Alimacani to see how long it
would take to get from there to the places we normally go in Ft. George
River. At slack tide, it took me five minutes to get to the Ribault Club. I
decided to head to the east side of the river and it took me another five
minutes to get to the mouth of Simpsons Creek where I got out at a nice spot
for camping and swimming located just opposite the place I camped at last
April. I took a few pictures just to show what it looks like. I headed back
by going back by the Ribault Club and since the tide was coming in and the
current was getting swift I stayed close to the sandbar before ferrying over
to Alimacani.
The only problem with putting in at Alimacani is that in the summer time this area is lousy with PWC's and the entire east side of the river is where they love to run amuck. With the idiotic decision by the state to close the ramp behind the Ribault Club, however, it looks like we are not going to have much of a choice if we want to access this wonderful spot.
01/29/01
Put-In : Ft. George River (Alimacani)
Time : 10:00 a.m.
Temp : 65
Weather : Clear
Water : Smooth
Tide : Incoming
I returned to Alimacani on one of the warmest days so far this year. It was warm enough to just wear my swimsuit and fleece pullover and I was tempted to take a quick dip. I put-in about 2 hrs before high tide and had an easy paddle to the end of Ft. George River to the Mud River which is a creek that runs along the SW side if Big Talbot Island. I followed it to where it empties into the ICW 1/8 mile north of Ft. George River. At the entrance to the Mud River there was a pod of Dolphins that were entering the ICW and heading north. I circled around an island and re-entered Ft. George and then headed back to "Camp Island" at Simpsons Creek and ate lunch and laid in my hammock. By that time, the tide had turned and so I had an easy paddle back to Alimacani.
02/12/01
Put-In : Cedar Point Creek (Heckscher Dr.)
Time : 10:00 a.m.
Temp : 54
Weather : Cloudy, Foggy, Cold (dreary)
Water : Choppy
Tide : Incoming
It was a cold dreary day and I was tempted to stay at home and watch DVD's but since my free time is going to be limited in a few days I forced myself to go. I decided to do a little exploring and printed out a terraserver pic of a feeder creek that empties into Clapboard just to the NE of Pinders Island. It looked like there was a couple of islands to the north, just south of Cedar Point road. Once I got up there it was just a matter of seeing what was around the next bend and I finally found some solid ground where I could get out and eat some lunch. The trip back was with the tide and the wind at my back so it was pleasant. There wasn't much happening out there - I think the wildlife decided to stay home and watch DVD's. On days like this, the sky is slate gray and the water is the same color. It was quiet out there though - very quiet. Hopefully I will make it back here at a later date and do some more exploring.
03/22/01
Put-In : Ft. George River (Alimacani)
Time : 4:45 p.m.
Temp : 70
Weather : Clear
Water : Light Chop
Tide : Incoming
28 straight days without a day off! It all ended today and at 4:30 I celebrated by hitting the water for the first time in two weeks. I put in at Alimacani and paddled down to the Ribault Club boat ramp to see what exactly they were doing down there. With an incoming tide, I was there in less than five minutes and walked around and took several pictures. It looks like they are progressing and if what I saw is any indication, it should be re-opened soon. I hope so!
I paddled back against a strong current and decided to enter Haulover Creek and explore around for a while. I haven't been back in Haulover since almost two years ago when I explored it with my friend Mike from work. I was amazed how strong the current rushes into the tiny streams of Haulover. Normally, in an area like that, the water kind of meanders in slowly but here with the close influence of the ocean and the Ft. George River to the north and the St. Johns to the east, the water comes in powerfully. I followed the channel to where it skirts along the east edge of the road between the church and the Ribault Club. At one point, I flushed an Osprey who flew out to a dead tree in the middle of the marsh. I snuck up on him to take a few pictures and was amazed at how white his plumage was. I didn't get close enough to do him justice with my digital and when he flushed again he went back to the same pine tree he started out from. Coming back, I flushed him again, but by this time he got tired of the game and disappeared.
Not much of a trip, I'll admit, but it was great to get out. While I was in Haulover, I started to think about a trip that I have been planning for years - a circumnavigation of Ft. George Island. I decided that if I start the trip at mid-tide and put-in at Alimacani I can get through Haulover to the St. Johns with plenty of time to still go up the river to Shad Creek and get through to the Intracoastal while the current is favorable. From there, it will be relatively easy to get to Ft. George River and I should be able to get past the Plantation about the time the tide changes and carries me back to the put-in. I figure on about a 4 hour paddle with time to stop and rest at the Intracoastal and either at the Plantation or a sandbar in the River. The trick will be finding the time when the tides, daylight, weather and my schedule all coincide.
03/26/01
Put-In : Clapboard Creek (Palms Fish Camp)
Time : 8:00 a.m.
Temp : 45
Weather : Clear
Water : Light Chop
Tide : Incoming
Over the past couple of years, my wife and I have become acquainted with Art, the cook at the Palms Fish Camp which is located on the east bank of Clapboard Creek. If you haven't found out about the wonderful seafood buffet he puts out on Friday and Saturday nights, you don't know what you are missing. It's become a popular, secret, eating spot for the Amelia Island and Pontre Vedra crowd and such celebs as Delores Weaver have been known to frequent it. On one of our recent walks down there for dinner, Art stopped by our table to chat and I asked him if it was OK for us to put our boats in at the fish camp. He said there would be no problem and today, I finally got the chance to take him up on the offer.
I put-in about 8:30 and paddled straight up Clapboard to the point where it heads west at Pinders Island. I was in the same general area as my trip on 2/12 but I chose the stream to the west of where I went before. I had seen on Terraserver another island that looked promising and I wanted to check it out. It was an easy paddle with the tide and into a light NW breeze. It was cold enough to wear my winter gear but it was warming up quickly. I got up to the island that was my intended destination and I found a couple of places that looked like they would be good to beach my boat. I noticed another island to the west and so I decided to follow the stream north to see if there was a better place to get out there. As I approached the other island I could see and hear more than one Osprey and noticed what appeared to be two nests in close proximity to one another. I paddled around to investigate and found a place to get out. As I stood and watched, I could see that there was one nest with two Ospreys in it and another smaller one in a tree close by. There were at least two more Ospreys flying about chirping at my presence. After a few minutes one of the Ospreys left and returned a few minutes later with a large branch. He repeated this act several times in the next few minutes. It is the first time that I have ever seen Ospreys actually building a nest.
After a while, I continued my trip and as I continued my circumnavigation around "Osprey Island" all four birds finally departed noisily together. I think it's unusual for two nests to be so close together but I wonder if the second pair were earlier fledglings of the pair that were building the nest. The second nest was much smaller and no work was being done on it. I figure the younger pair were waiting for Mom and Dad to get done with their nest so that they would come over and help out. Kids!
I finished paddling around "Osprey Island" and headed back to my original destination. There was a good place to get out although the island itself needs a little clearing to be a good picnic or camp spot. As I was standing by my boat, getting the dry bags out, I heard a loud splash close by and my first thought was "Gator!" I looked up and not 10 feet away was a Pelican who had dove in the water and was in the process of swallowing what he caught. He sat there eyeing me for a while before he flew off and then about five minutes later came crashing down in the same spot. I believe he was enjoying scaring me.
I headed back just as the tide was getting ready to turn and the water was clear and glassy. All of the way back to my put-in, I could see the bottom and spotted both sting rays and several large red-fish swimming in the grass.
I don't feel right telling everyone that it's OK to put-in at the Palms boat ramp. The dock and ramp are in such bad shape that boaters don't generally use it and I'm sure there is a liability concern there. Fishermen who use the Clapboard Creek Bridge regularly park there, however, and I don't see why anyone would object. If you decide to try out the buffet and get to know Art, you might ask him about using it - chance are he will tell you the same thing he told me.
04/06/01
Put-In : Ft. George River (Alimacani)
Time : 9:00 a.m.
Temp : 65
Weather : Clear
Water : Smooth
Tide : Outgoing
Just a quickie recreational paddle. The weather, which was supposed to be great this week, turned out to be a little cloudy and windy but today was beautiful. The tide was just starting to turn so, although the current was strong at my put-in, it was not unmanageable. I stopped at the Ribault Club again and checked out their progress (or lack of) on the "repairs". As I got back in the water to head to "Hammock Island" I noticed a head pop-up and then back down, just past the first dock. My first thought was "otter" since I had seen one in the exact same location two years ago. Sure enough, he popped up again a few feet from my boat and I was able to get my camera out and snap a couple of pictures before he disappeared in the grass.
The rest of the trip was un-eventful. I set up my hammock on what remains of Hammock Island. There are only two trees left on the point and there have opened up two large fissures in the ground. It's only a matter of time before the other two trees follow the rest and take a dive for the water. The rest of the island is intact and a large pile of fire-wood has been stocked giving evidence of it's frequent use.
I took my first dip today - Yikes - Brrrrrrrrrr! It was cold but refreshing. Next week the temps are supposed to reach the upper 80's and the water will feel a lot nicer.
I still had the current when I headed back and as I got out, I saw two more kayakers putting their boats in the water. It was a great day for it.
04/09/01
Put-In : Ft. George River (Alimacani)
Time : 9:30 a.m.
Temp : 75
Weather : Clear
Water : Smooth
Tide : Incoming
The weather was simply too terrific to ignore so I put-in at Alimacani and decided to see how long it would take to make the first leg of my future planned circumnavigation around Ft. George Island. The tide was still flowing in but it was almost at it's peak when I entered Haulover. The water was amazingly clear and since the first part of Haulover - from Ft. George to where the creek runs underneath the road near the church - has a bottom of hard white sand, I was able to see the bottom as I floated along with the current. I passed under the large pine tree that is prominent along the bank near the road and noticed two wood storks and an osprey with a large fish in his claws with the head missing.
From there, the creek leaves the steep bank along the road and meanders out into the middle of the marsh between the island and Hecksher Drive. I had previously thought that this area was extremely shallow but today I found out differently. I noticed something floating on the water a few yards ahead of me. I didn't think much of it but as I approached it suddenly disappeared. A few seconds later, not more than 5-10 feet away, a large gnarly, prehistoric looking flipper rose up out of the water and then disappeared. This was then replaced by a large, whiskered nose that snorted and then submerged. The water under my boat then started to boil as large blossoms appeared in a trail leading away. I quickly pulled to the side and got my camera out only to see another head appear several yards downstream.
This began a game of cat and mouse as I carefully attempted to follow the lumbering giants. I wanted to get close enough to get a picture but not close enough to bother them. At times, the boils would be directly under my boat and then as I prepared to snap a picture where I thought they would re-surface, I would see them several yards further along and I would start paddling to keep up. Finally, out of desperation, I got a couple of pictures of three snouts surfacing in unison. I finally got ahead of them about the time that we reached the bridge at Heckscher Drive and I paddled on out to the river. About 10 minutes later I saw them pass along in front of me and enter the river heading west.
When I started back the tide was heading out and the current in Haulover was pretty intense until I got a couple of hundred yards past the bridge. I stopped at the island in the middle of the marsh that I have always wanted to explore. There is a causeway leading from the road out to it and I had heard that there was once a beach house that was associated with the hotel located at the Ribault Club. I walked up the road and saw the foundations for a couple of structures but it was impossible to tell what they were used for. I guess this will be another question for Lauri to answer. It looked like a great place to camp if it were not for the proximity to the road and the Navy base. Someone has purposely dug up the road on the causeway to prevent people from driving down it but a 4x4 would have no problem.
I headed on back and at one point I temporarily lost my way. At the midpoint of the creek, where it leaves the shelter of the road and heads out to the middle of the marsh, it tends to meander and it is very difficult to determine which is the correct path. Fortunately, the flow is pretty good and there are lots of landmarks on the island to help you figure it out. As I passed the large pine tree, the same osprey, with the same fish (only the tail was left ) and the the same two wood storks were still at their perches. The rest of the trip was uneventful. As I got to the breakover point, the current was swiftly flowing out so I popped open a beer and dangled my feet over the side. I later got out and floated along side the boat and rest at a sandbar along the way. Great day for it!
04/13/01
Put-In : Bogey Branch
Time : 1:30 p.m.
Temp : 90
Weather : Partly Cloudy
Water : Light Chop
Tide : Incoming
A co-worker of mine, Tom Spencer, owns a large piece of property on Cedar Point Road that runs along Bogey Branch. My wife has known Tom and his family for years since they all attend church at St. George's on Ft. George Island and she and the kids have picked blueberries at their blueberry farm many times in the past. Since I have started paddling regularly in the past couple of years, Tom has continually invited me to put-in at his property and see what it was like. Finally, today, Hope and I got a chance to do just that and we were not disappointed.
It was the first time that Hope has been out since I hurt my back last August. We put in behind one of the houses on the property and headed out to Clapboard Creek. From there we headed east to Buckhorn Bluff which is part of the Pelotes Preserve and is a place I visited last year. We got out and explored around a little to see if it was a decent place to camp. Buckhorn is apparently the site of an old fish camp and was supposed to be used extensively as a part of the preserve but it is largely unused. We noticed a number of cormorants and herons roosting in the trees and also saw several nests. There was also, what appeared to be a pond on the west side of the island but we decided to try to approach it from the water when we left. We sat around and ate out sandwiches and then went swimming until a fish decided to see if Hopey was good to eat which, of course caused her rapid departure from the water.
As we headed back we decided to see if we could get into the pool we had seen on the island. It appears that this pool or pond may be man-made and there was a narrow channel that led into the marsh. Unfortunately, a large cedar had fallen from the bank and was blocking our way. Apparently the large number of herons we saw were roosting in the trees that bordered this pool and is probably a great fishing spot.
We had an easy paddle back, stopping to snap some pictures of a beautiful Least Tern that was resting on a crab trap float. When we got back, we stopped to share a coke with Tom's Mom, Sue and chat. We also checked out a better place to put-in located a bit further out on Bogey Branch.
We are looking forward to using this put-in more and more in the future. It's a great place to access what I think of as the "Real Timucuan".
04/15/01
Put-In : Cedar Point (Heckscher Dr.)
Time : 5:50 a.m.
Temp : 65
Weather : Mostly Clear
Water : Smooth
Tide : Outgoing
My wife, Hope, the official "Church Lady" at St. George's Episcopal Church, had to attend the Easter Sunrise service on the island this morning and was gone by 5 a.m. to get things set up. I roused myself shortly thereafter deciding that I would have my own "sunrise" service in my boat. I got in the water around the corner from our house at Cedar Point when the first signs of dawn were just showing on the horizon.
The water was calm with just a hint of a breeze coming from the southwest. I paddled around the points and turned into my shortcut through the marsh. I found a nice place to park about 30 mins before dawn and sipped my coffee while I listened to the marsh come alive around me. I could hear, but not see a large flock of Crows making a racket nearby and I could also hear the familiar sound of the Marsh Wrens buzzing away in the grass. As the light grew in the east, changing the sky and water's color from deep purple to silvery blue and then to golden, the activity level changed accordingly as groups of pelicans, gulls and skimmers flew overhead to begin the day's activities.
The sunrise itself was anti-climatic. It just sort of happened as if today was just another day. I drank another cup of coffee and then stretched out in the bottom of my boat and let the current carry me further down the feeder stream I was parked in. I headed back, this time skipping the shortcut since the tide was now a foot or two lower, and stopped to check out the stream where I saw the marsh wrens a year ago. It was too shallow to go very far in and although I could see and hear the wrens, I never got very close and never saw any sign of their nests that they like to build.
I was just about to think that this was, overall, a pretty dull paddle when I passed a couple of people standing on an oyster bed island fishing who had paddled out on a Ocean Kayak. After exchanging greetings, I soon saw a pair of dolphins surface and was able to finish up the roll of film in my camera as I floated with them for a few minutes. As I made the final turn for my truck I was approached by one of the oddest marine animals I've ever seen and I have no idea what it was. About 10 yards away, I saw two small flippers or fins parallel to each other about six inches apart, heading right for me. They were rising out of the water and then submerging in perfect unison. This continued for several seconds and then just when they got close enough for me to see what they were, they disappeared. It had to be from the same animal but what? A turtle perhaps? Strange!
In the shallows near my truck three pelicans were having Sunday Brunch, swimming along and lunging their heads under the water and coming up with a mouthful every time. Even back at the homestead, the wildlife was active. We sat on the porch eating breakfast and watched a pair of wrens feed their young in the nest they have built in a bucket under my gas grill. Later, a huge Great Horned Owl flew in and perched on a branch overhanging the marsh.
A great day to be a paddler in NE Florida!
04/16/01
Put-In : Ft. George River (Alimacani)
Time : 4:45 p.m.
Temp : 80
Weather : Clear
Water : Choppy
Tide : Outgoing
The weather was getting ready to turn cold so I decided to paddle out to our sandbar and take a swim. I figured it would be another week before the temps got warm enough for me to brave another dip. The water was beautiful - I could see at least 6 feet down.
After a nice soak, I paddled out around to Point Isabella and noticed three large cubic objects on a sandbar. As I got close I realized that they were three pieces of land that had broken off from an island and floated over to where they had come to rest. I figured I knew where they originated from so I paddled across to the island we call "Hammock Island" or "Camping Island". Sure enough, it had changed dramatically in just a couple of weeks since I had last visited and several more trees were in the water and large pieces of the land were missing and apparently sitting on the sandbar a 100 yards away.
04/18/01
Put-In : Browns Creek
Time : 4:45 p.m.
Temp : 60
Weather : Clear
Water : Choppy
Tide : Incoming
I put-in after work at Browns Creek and decided to take the western route along the plant property. I wanted to see if I could find the place I saw two years ago where someone had placed a railroad tie and some other boards to create a make-shift dock. I found it easily and got out to look around. A nice place to stop if the noise from the plant isn't too bad. There was obviously something there back in the woods at some time in the past pre-SJRPP. Someday I'll bring the proper clothing and check it out.
I continued around the western edge and then headed east past the islands I usually visit and started back to my put-in. As soon as I cleared the large camping island I could see the unmistakable silhouette of a bald eagle on the very same tree I had seen he and his mate on last November. The sun was directly behind him but the shape of his head gave him away. I only had my digital with me but I snapped a few pictures as I approached him. As before, I was able to get right up to the base of the tree he was perching on before he flew off. The picture above doesn't do him justice but you get an idea just how impressive these birds are. As he flew off, I watched him to see where he went so that I could let Kelly know where they are nesting this year. He headed due east over Shrimper's Creek and then made a 90 deg turn and appeared to be heading in the general direction of the old nest.
4/20/01
Put-In : Ft. George River (Alimacani)
Time : 5:30 p.m.
Temp : 78
Weather : Clear
Water : Light Chop
Tide : Incoming
Hope and I celebrated our first Friday evening picnic paddle of the year today. Even the idiots at the Talbot Island Geo-park couldn't spoil it. We put-in at Alimacani and let the current carry us to our sandbar where we found just enough of it above the tide to have our picnic. It was too cold to swim and after a while it was too cold to even be out there so we headed back against the remaining incoming tide. I have been concerned about Hope's ability to paddle against the current in front of Alimacani which is wicked even for a strong paddler. She was willing to try, however, since she assumed I would tow her back if it proved too tough (HA!). We planned our route carefully and stayed on the west bank of the channel that runs along the docks past the Ribault and then ferried across to the large sandbar in the middle of the river directly opposite Alimacani. There, we rested and watched the sun go down behind the island and then stayed along the edge of the sandbar until we were parallel to my truck. By this time the tide should have been slack but a SE wind was still pushing water in so we ferried across with no problem. Hope said she had no problem at all with the current so it looks like we can do it even if the Talbot idiots don't keep their word. As we got close to shore I saw a fellow poke boater from work - Mike pull in the parking lot. He had been parked across the river watching the sun go down when he noticed us doing the same so he came across to greet us.
5/2/01
Put-In : Hannah Mills
Time : 4:45 p.m.
Temp : 75
Weather : Scattered Showers
Water : Glassy
Tide : Incoming
Today was a day that, in many ways, defines me as a paddler. My back has been kind of acting up on me lately causing me to take to take it a little easy. Today in particular it wasn't feeling that good and when I left work it was raining so I my first thought was "head home, take a pain pill and crawl in bed". As I headed to home, the rain ended and I started thinking about maybe, just maybe I could put the boat in and paddle out a few hundred yards and pop open a Becks (which I had conveniently iced down as I left work). The clincher was when I approached my driveway and saw that Hopey's van was gone. Knowing that she was having dinner at the church tonight I figured that this would be a great time to spend time on the water.
In spite of the recent howling, easterly wind we've had around here, it was eerily calm and the water was like glass. After some indecision, I decided to put-in at Hannah Mills and really thought that it would be no more that a "beer paddle" but the water was go smooth and inviting that I just kept on going. About 1000 yards from shore I realized that I had forgotten my back brace for the first time in several months. I felt so good, however, that I pressed on without it. I headed due east into the creek that runs just north of the Kingfish boat ramp and stopped at some tiny little oyster shell islands along the way. Once I got to the old marina I paddled behind the dock and checked out some potential spots to put-in and noticed that the city is doing quite a bit of work, build a playground and picnic area which is going to be really nice when it is done.
I headed back after an hour or so and when I got within sight of my truck I popped open my beer and let the wind, which by this time had picked back up, push me back in. After finishing my beer I scooted down in the bottom of my boat and floated and dozed as I rocked along. Finally, I got back up and grabbed my paddle and started to lazily paddle toward my truck. When I got about 500 yards away, I had the horrible realization that my lights were on and started frantically paddling the rest of the way (as if that would help at this point). Fortunately, my battery was none the worse for my stupidity and my truck started right up.
As I said above, this is the kind of trip that is me to the maximum. I load my boat in my truck and sometimes, I have no clue if I will go paddling or where I will go if I do. It's why I like living where I live and working where I work. It's why I'm glad I chose the boat that I own that is so easy to get in and out of the water and one that I can stretch out in and enjoy just being out on the water.
5/4/01 -
5/5/01
Put-In : Hannah Mills
Time : 6:00 p.m.
Temp : 75
Weather : Clear, Breezy
Water : Choppy
Tide : Incoming
Kayak Camping III - the adventure continues!
My impulsive side, which I usually keep fairly well hidden, got the better of me and Hopey and I turned our usual Friday evening paddle into an impromptu kayak camping adventure on the Intracoastal. We were in the second day of a "kids free weekend" - a rarity at the McCharen residence but one we are looking forward to getting very used to in the near future. Andrew was in Atlanta on a band trip, Hannah was still a week away from returning from UM and Jenny - well, we never see her anyway so we figured this was a great time to try it. Since Hopey had never gone kayak camping with me before she was a little apprehensive when she came home and saw that I was packing for something a little more adventuresome than a simple picnic. I assured her that if it didn't look right we would just turn around and come on home and I was just packing the bare minimum for a 12 -14 hour overnight trip. The church lady quickly decided she was up for it and we got in the water at Hannah Mills around 6.
After getting everything stowed and double checking that I had not repeated my bonehead move of a few days ago (see above), we headed due east into an incoming tide and stiff easterly breeze. The water was a little choppy and it was slow going but we made steady progress. I had originally planned to take the small stream that I took the other day and then head up the ICW but instead I took a chance that there was a more direct way to get us on the waterway closer to our destination. After a couple of moments of indecision we found ourselves in the ICW about 1/2 mile south of the island I wanted to camp at. We had to fight a stiff current for about 30 mins until we got parallel to the island and then ferried across. We beached our boats just as a huge yacht came barreling by that was throwing up a wake that was crashing two or three feet up the shore. The driver powered down when he saw us and we waved our thanks as he went by. His wake was still huge and if we had been trying to unload at that moment the pokes would have been easily swamped.
It was probably a little after seven when we landed so we got busy setting up camp before the sun went down. It was a little buggy but not too bad and the temperature was perfect. We set up our jungle hammocks with mine closest to the water (so I could fend off attacks by pirates ) and then watched a glorious sunset. Once the sun set, we ate, had some wine and then decided that a small fire was too tempting to resist with all of the cedar kindling within arm's reach.
As dusk waned and the lights at Blount Island began to appear far to the southwest we were both amazed at how incredibly quiet it was. We could see the headlights on Hecksher, we could see Northside and SJRPP power plants but except for a low rumble coming from the direction of Mayport and the occasional horn blast by the Mayport Ferry, it was absolutely quiet. Not even the wildlife was active, or at least that's what we thought when suddenly the silence was broken by the "Pssshhhht!Puffffff!" of a dolphin passing in front of our camp site. We walked out to the water to see the inky black, familiar silhouette of a lone dolphin breeching in the now glassy, gold colored water of the ICW. We watched for a few minutes until we could no longer see him but we heard him for several minutes longer as the sound of his exhales grew more and more distant. While I see dolphins now almost every trip I take, I believe it is the first time Hopey has been with me and seen them.
The rest of the evening we talked about everything and nothing and generally came to the conclusion that this was something we were going to do a lot of for as long as our fat old bodies would allow. Hopefully, that will be at least a few more years. I think we both agreed that the money I spent on our poke boats was the best $2000 we have spent in out 23 years of marriage.
We crawled into our hammocks at about 10 and staged warm stuff in the pockets in case it got colder than the 60 deg forecast. I read for a while and then dozed off about 10:30. As is always the case with me when I camp, my night was spent mostly dozing on and off. I was comfortable in the hammock which I had not slept in in nearly a year and not since my back flared up on me in August. I watched the moon travel through the sky filtered through the tops of the cedar trees and listened to the boat traffic as it passed by. At one point a large barge tug roared by throwing up a huge wake. Later a group of fishermen anchored 100 yds upstream and I could hear very word they said. I dozed off and they were gone. Later another boat passed with a powerful floodlight that someone was shining up and down the bank. They shone it right on my hammock at one point but they passed on. I guess they weren't the pirates I was protecting Hopey from.
I finally got up about 6, not feeling particularly well rested but feeling good nonetheless. I made coffee, ate some yogurt and then roused the church lady who had just spent her first night in her jungle hammock not much more restfully than did I. But she was still happy we did it and was ready to try it again with some modifications.
The boat traffic was much heavier and by 7 we had already seen a couple of dozen boats pass by - mostly going north, some to the Shrimp Festival, most to fishing spots. We packed up about 8 and had a smooth and easy trip back. The current and the wind were at our backs and we were within sight of "old blue" within 30 mins. Just before we turned into the creek off the ICW to head back, we passed an Osprey who was hanging out on a branch over the water. He was chirping in response to his mate who was a few yards away in their nest on Marker 82. As I said, the trip home couldn't have been easier or more pleasant.
5/24/01 -
5/25/01
Put-In : Ft. George River (Alimacani)
Time : 6:00 p.m.
Temp : 80
Weather : Clear, Breezy
Water : Choppy
Tide : Incoming
Kayak Camping on the FGR.
My wife and I had intended to take the next week (our 23rd anniversary) and find some low budget fun which we hoped would include some kayak camping. As the week approached, however, we realized that not only did we not have any money to do anything, we also were going to find little time to do it anyway with Jenny's graduation and other end of the school year activities. We finally found a small, window of opportunity and decided to go for it and wound up putting in at Alimacani with the intention of camping on the island I camped on last April at the entrance to Simpsons Creek.
It was a low, incoming tide with a stiff easterly breeze so we had a quick trip down to the point where the river bends sharply to the west. Just as we were preparing to cross over, however, we noticed that our island was already occupied by one of the boaters we have seen camp there in the past. It was surprising to see someone else camp there in the middle of the week but when you are kayak camping you always have to have a backup plan and fortunately we did. I had been scouting out the area on the opposite bank of the entrance to Simpsons for some time and it looked like it would be a very good spot. The only drawback is that it is actually located on Little Talbot Island State Park property and only a 1/4 mile west of the ranger's residence. It had all of the elements of a great place to camp, however, and so we decide to risk the slim chance of eviction and went ahead and set up camp.
It turned out to be a great move and I think it's actually a better place in many ways than our intended destination. We were able to set up our hammocks close together in an open area close to the water. We then dug a fire pit on the beach and started a charcoal fire to cook our steaks. Dinner would have been perfect had it not been for the fact that I had left our eating utensils on the dining room table back at the house. My leatherman came to the rescue and we munched on "steak fingers" and cherry tomatoes while sipping a nice merlot and watched the sun set over Black Hammock.
We sat and watched the new moon set a short time later and then enjoyed a warm breezy night as the stars started to come out. A full day of work, a nice paddle, a juicy steak and a bottle of wine had us both ready for bed at a little after 10 and we fell into our hammocks for a good nights sleep. I slept much better than I usually do camping. The wind really picked up and for a while I thought we might be in for a storm. It was nice to listen to and the water lapping at the shore as the tide came in was nice too. Much better than those nature tapes you can buy. At some point during the night, the wind went from a near gale to dead calm. The temperature stayed moderate, but along about 4 or 5 it got just a little chilly.
I finally got up about 6:20, and I could hear the bird life become active. I got up, took some pictures, made the coffee and then woke Hope up. We had a nice, leisurely morning although the lack of wind made it a little buggy. We packed it in about 9:30 and headed over to our new picnic sandbar where we sat around, swam and read until noon when the tide turned and then came on home. We were amazed at how empty the river was but as we made the final leg, we could see more and more activity and were glad to leave it to the jetskis for the rest of the holiday weekend.
6/11/01
Put-In : Cedar Point (Heckscher Dr.)
Time : 9:00 a.m.
Temp : 85
Weather : Partly Cloudy
Water : Smooth
Tide : Incoming
I have been wanting to make the connection between the Cedar Point Creek that is at my put-in along Heckscher Dr. and the one that is to the north just south of Horseshoe Creek. A couple of years ago, I paddled into the northern section from the ICW after putting in at Horseshoe but only ventured about a 1/4 mile in. I've also made the turn into the the area where the two sections join in the south approximately where the creek splits off and either heads to Clapboard or towards the culvert that goes under Heckscher and drains it into the river. Until today, however, I had never paddled the section in between.
I put in about 9:00 a.m., the tide having just started to turn around and come back in. It was still very low and that meant that I had to stay in the middle of the channels to avoid running aground. I passed a couple of guys in an ocean kayak coming back from fishing and they looked like the ones I saw last April in the same location. I made it to the entrance to the southern section of the creek in about 30 mins and having forgotten to take along my terraserver photo, I had to try to find the right path from memory and using my instincts. It turned out to be pretty easy as the channel was well marked by both crab floats and some PVC pipe that fishermen had driven in to mark the correct channel. Basically, the key was to stay to the left and once you get in the channel there wasn't much question about which way to go. In the past, I had taken the path to the right and that area leads to a very confusing maze before finally reaching the ICW. Today I found the way much clearer.
Once I was in the main channel I was able to quickly paddle up to where the creek runs along the section of the Timucuan Preserve National Park just to the south of the boat ramp on Horseshoe Creek. This is also where Pumpkin Hill Creek runs to the south of Cedar Point Road. It also flows under the road and goes north before running into the Nassau River. There was a place to get out and walk around on the roads of the preserve and I believe those roads will take you up to the place where Cedar Point road dead ends.
I had wanted to continue on to the ICW and I believe I was less than 10 minutes away but I was pressed for time, needing to get back to pick up my son downtown so I headed back. For the most part, the paddle back was fine but at some places I was bucking a tough current and my back was really starting to make me uncomfortable. I pressed on and made it back to my truck by 11:45.
There were many other streams that I could have explored while out there, Pumpkin Hill looked particularly inviting. It looked like there were several good camping places along here as well.
6/19/01
Put-In : Hannah Mills
Time : 4:45 pm
Temp : 85
Weather : Partly Cloudy
Water : Smooth
Tide : Incoming
I put-in at Hannah Mills just as the tide got deep enough to navigate and headed out the same route we had taken to our camp site last month. I wanted to investigate some quicker, easier routes to the island on the ICW that I has seen on Terraserver.
The current was fairly swift and I was also facing a stiff sea breeze but I still made good progress. I stopped at one of the "sea daisy" islands that dot this portion of the Timucuan. I have come to recognize that certain types of vegetation mean that the ground they are growing on is solid and make decent place to take a break. The sea daisies apparently love to grow on dead oyster beds that are slightly mushy but otherwise great places to beach the boat and walk around on. Eventually, these islands may attract more vegetation and become even more substantial places. The redwing blackbirds love sea daisies, BTW.
As I made the turn to the east into the main channel that dumps into the ICW, I was facing a much stiffer current but I only had to paddle a few yards up to a large dead cedar tree lying on it's side and then ferry across to the smaller feeder stream that I wanted to investigate. This stream heads north parallel to the ICW before emptying into the ICW directly across from out island. The current was much easier and I made good time and was across the waterway and on the island in a few minutes. I hung out there for a while before heading back.
The trip back was easy - wind and tide now at my back. The whole trip would have been pleasant except for a disturbing sight at my put-in. Someone had pulled around my truck and parked to fish at the water's edge so that it would be extremely difficult for me to get out. That was rude but not as rude as what I witnessed as I approached. Apparently, they decided that the trash in their trunk was getting too deep and since they had this huge garbage can called the Timucuan Preserve in front of them, why not use it? I was too pissed to say anything at the time but I thought of a lot of ways to deal with a similar situation in the future. From now on, I will keep several garbage bags in my truck and make a point to pick up trash around my put-ins. Since I always have cameras handy, I can always take pictures - especially of license plates and find out who to report them to - perhaps just post them on my web site!
7/9/01
Put-In : Ft. George River
Time : 10:15 a.m.
Temp : 85
Weather : Partly Cloudy
Water : Smooth
Tide : Incoming
Cute ain't I? I know, I need to drop a few pounds before I try to get back in my speedo but at least I look good floating in the river.
As usual, I wasn't sure where to go today. My back was feeling better but I wasn't sure about pushing it so I put in at FGR so that I could at least be sure of a good swim before I was done. I felt like doing a little more than just paddling to the nearest sandbar, however, so I decided to head towards Kingsley and once I got there I continued on to the ICW. As I approached the waterway, I was hugging the southern bank hoping to get some heron pics. I was about to get my cameras out when I noticed something splashing in the water along the grassy bank ahead. It took me several seconds to realize that what I was seeing was a pair of very frisky manatees. I had never seen manatees do anything that wasn't slow and deliberate but these two were in what could only be described as a "feeding frenzy" that reminded me more of dolphins.
I pulled over to the grass and watched them frolicking about 10 yards ahead of me and when it appeared they were moving further out I moved up towards them, trying to keep a respectful distance. Apparently, they had other ideas and soon started heading back towards me - oblivious to the fact that I was there. I've had manatees surface close to me and I've been on top of the "blooms" caused by their tails but now I had two rolling on the surface within inches of my boat. Periodically, they would raise their heads, with mouths full of grass, snort, stare right in my face and then continue on about their business. I was tempted to reach out and touch them and at one point I thought I should, just so they would be reminded that I was there and not capsize me, but instead I gently paddled further up to where I could beach my boat. I then walked back along the bank and stood for several minutes watching them tear into the grass just below my feet. On several occasions, they would both raise their heads in unison and nuzzle each other before submerging. One of them would occasionally roll onto his back and raise his flippers in the air. I finally decided to head back and when I did they were both still grazing along the bank and large pieces of grass were floating out with the tide with bite marks on them.
I stopped at our old picnic sandbar and ate, drank and swam. As I was preparing to leave I heard an extremely loud exhale and looked up to see a dolphin swimming by in the main channel. He was exhaling so forcefully his vapor could be seen six feet above the surface of the water.
It's been several weeks since I've had a paddle as good as today and I really enjoyed it.
8/13/01
Put-In : Intracoastal (Kingfish Ramp)
Time : 4:45 pm
Temp : 85
Weather : Partly Cloudy
Water : Light Choppy
Tide : Incoming - Outgoing
It's been a while since I've been able to get out in anything other than quickie paddle picnics in FGR but today I was determined to get out there. I put in at the Kingfish Ramp and check out the work they have done. More on that later.
I put in at the side area where I have put in in the past. I paddled into the stream that runs by the old marina and then followed it up behind the islands on the west bank of the ICW. I wanted to verify that route as a way to get to our camping island without going out on the ICW itself until I was as close as possible. I was able to do so easily and was where I wanted to be within 45 minutes. I paddled across and explored some of the islands to the south before heading back.
I was came back along the ICW until I reached Marker 82 where a large Osprey nest is located and then crossed to head back into the stream that I had come up. As I made the turn to come in from the ICW I saw a huge blob in front of me along the bank. It didn't take me long to realize this was another Manatee that was busy feeding on the cord grass along the bank. Unlike the ones I encountered above, this one was acting very much like a good, old fashioned conservative republican manatee. None of that liberal democrat dolphin splashing about or rolling on it's back. Just some conservative plodding and efficient mowing of the grass.
I got out and was ready take pictures but I had inadvertently hit something on my camera that had locked the shutter and I couldn't figure it out at first. Without a chance to shoot pictures I just watched him and since the bank sloped gently down to where he was feeding, at one point I bent over and had my face inches from the water when he raised his head out of the water, mouth open, grass hanging out, and took a long look at something that was probable every bit as ugly (or cute depending on your point of view) as he was. I guess he was pretty disgusted by what he saw, because he soon moved on. Very slowly and conservatively, like a good republican manatee should - munching grass as he went, but he definitely was perturbed at my presence. I figured out what I had done wrong on my camera and snapped some pictures as he headed out.
I got back to the old marina and got what I hope are some good pics of some Herons and Egrets and also several terns that had roosted on the pilings.
A good day for paddling.
8/20/01
Put-In : Ft. George River (Ribault - Yeah!)
Time : 10:00 am
Temp : 90
Weather : Partly Cloudy
Water : Light Choppy
Tide : Incoming - Outgoing
It's finally open! Well, temporarily at least. The state has done such a good job on the ramp to make sure that our experience is as unpleasant as possible so that when they close it permanently, no one will complain.
Oh well, enough ranting. I only put in here today to make a statement - it's open! It's nice to be five minutes closer to the areas we enjoy and away from the currents and jetskis. I headed toward the ICW just before high tide and I was hoping to meet my manatee friends for lunch since I figured the tidal conditions were ideal for them to be back at the chord grass at the entrance to the FGR. Evidently, they had chosen a different lunch spot today or were brown bagging it. In any case, they were no where to be seen.
I crossed the ICW and paddled around the island on the west bank opposite the entrance to FGR. I paddled back to our original sandbar spot and had lunch and swam a bit before heading back. I should have some good pics of Ospreys, Herons, Bittern and maybe a Kingfisher.
8/22/01
Put-In : Ft. George River (Alimacani)
Time : 4:45 p.m.
Temp : 90
Weather : Clear and Breezy
Water : Rough
Tide : Outgoing - Incoming
Took another trip east of the bridge. This is rapidly becoming a favorite place to go in the summer time if I can catch it at the end of an outgoing tide. The weather was clear but there was a still NE breeze and it made the water very rough in the inlet. But it's summer time and I didn't mind the water in my face. Once I cleared the rocks, I could hug the sandbar and it was calmer. I paddled all the way to where the inlet meets the ocean and waited for the tide to turn before I headed back in. It was so rough and windy out there it was very deserted and only the sound of the surf crashing.
8/24/01
Put-In : Ft. George River (Ribault)
Time : 1:00 p.m.
Temp : 90
Weather : Clear
Water : calm
Tide : Incoming - Outgoing
Three trips in one week! I must be feeling better. We had a game last night and my other writing responsibilities kept me up till almost 2 and then a doctors appointment at Mayo so I was wiped. But, Hope and I drug ourselves out to have a picnic and we had a great time at our old spot past the docks. We were accompanied on the trip down by an Osprey who flew from tree to tree along the bank as we floated along. We encountered a couple who had rented kayaks and were battling the current - something that as we get older have learned not to do if we want to have a good time.
The only problem we had was we both got stung by jellyfish but it wasn't enough to keep us out of the water. We both wanted to stay out about two hours longer but we had things to do. Water was clear and glassy as we headed back.
10/01/01
Put-In : Ft. George River (Ribault)
Time : 10:00 a.m.
Temp : 65
Weather : Clear, Breezy
Water : Rough
Tide : Outgoing
My football duties have kept me away from the journal even though I have made a few trips out. Other circumstances, such as the weather, a business trip and the ongoing battle with my back has kept my trips short and far between but with the change of weather that the recent tropical storm brought I have been itching to get out. I have a procedure scheduled this week on my back that may sideline me for a week or two so I had further impetus to get out.
Anyway, it was great day to be on the water. I love this time of the year! The jetski weenies have put their toys away and most other people are staying ashore. The wind was ripping out of the north at 15-20 mph and by the time I got in the water the tide was heading out. The tides have been 1-2 feet higher than normal and that makes navigation a lot more fun. I explored some of the smaller streams that cut into the main sandbar opposite the Ribault put-in and then headed across to the camp site on Little Talbot at the mouth of Simpsons Creek.
Like the smaller island on the opposite bank of Simpsons, this area is also eroding badly and a dozen or so trees have fallen in the water since last May when Hope and I camped there. I set up my hammock and then walked around the point toward the campground and saw a bald eagle flying toward Ft. George Island.
After hanging out in the hammock for an hour or so I headed back and with the tide and wind at my back I hardly dipped my paddle in the water as I floated back. It would have been a great little paddle except that as I beached my boat, I suddenly remembered that my keys were still in my fanny pack which was hanging back in the tree where I had strung my hammock - Damn!
So I repeated the trip - only by this time the wind had picked up considerably and I was a lot more worn out. What was going to be a pleasant little paddle turned into quite a workout thanks to my aging brain. Good to get out and I don't regret a moment of it. I should forget my keys more often.
10/12/01
- 10/14/01
Put-In : Suwanee River State Park
Time : 11:00 a.m.
Temp : 70
Weather : Clear, Breezy
Water : Smooth
Tide : None
Live Oak, Mayo, Bransford, Ft. White, High Springs, Wellborn, Suwannee, Sante Fe, Itchatuknee, Peacock Springs, Falmouth Springs. These are the names of just a few of the places we visited this weekend. Our son, Andrew, was at a church retreat near Live Oak and so we decided to take him out there, get a hotel room and spend the weekend doing what we used to occasionally do when we were first married in the days before kids - wander around the countryside.
We had intended to stay at the Inn at Camp Weed, the Episcopal Church camp where the retreat was being held but they were full up so we stayed at at motel near I-10 in Live Oak. After checking in, we headed into town to explore and ran smack into the Suwannee Sr. High Homecoming Parade and we had no choice but pull off and watch the parade in it's entirety. It had to be the longest, slowest parade in history but it was fun to see. We guessed that it was probably the highlight of the entire year in Live Oak and things probably are a lot less exciting the rest of the year.
Unfortunately, we noticed as we were leaving the parade that our tire was nearly flat so we filled it up and hoped for the best. It made it through the rest of the evening as we took Andrew to camp and went to dinner. By morning it was completely flat so the spare went on and a few hours later we were on the road with a new tire.
My back was starting to flare up a bit so I wasn't sure if we were really going to paddle or not but once we got out to the Suwannee River State Park, about 15 miles west of Live Oak on 90, we saw how slow and calm the current was and I decided we couldn't pass it up. We put in at the boat ramp around 11:00 am and headed upstream. The paddling was easy as the current was nearly non-existent. The river was beautiful. The water level looked to be about 3-4 feet lower than normal but there were no sandbars exposed. The limestone rock formations were amazing. Every few hundred yards there would be a sandy beach exposed and after a mile or so we got out on one of these and took a break. It looked like there were a lot of places that would be great to camp overnight. We paddled upstream a bit longer and then headed back. Once we got to the boat ramp we continued downstream a bit to where the Withlacootchee comes into the Suwannee.
We were quite surprised by how devoid of wildlife the river and it's banks were. Aside from a Red-Tailed hawk and some crows, there were no other birds. In the river itself, there were turtles and I thought I saw the silhouette of a gator crossing a few hundred yards ahead of us but nothing else. Not at all like the Timucuan. It was incredibly quiet - only the sound of the wind in the pines and cypress trees.
We headed back, stopping at Falmouth Springs which is a "Karst Window" - i.e. where an underground stream surfaces for a short period of time. The drought conditions obviously have effected it's condition and it was kind of stagnant.
We hung out at the motel the rest of the day and after supper found that out parking space in front of the room was occupied. That turned out to be a disaster. Dummy-me, I left our paddles stashed out of sight on top of the van but did not do the smart thing and stow them inside either our van or our room. I was going to wait for someone to move so I could out the van in front of our room but that didn't happen and when we got up that morning, I could see immediately that they were gone. I guess $300 is a cheap lesson to learn but it was still a bummer as you can imagine.
We decided to go exploring and headed down 51 to Mayo where we ate breakfast. Along the way we stopped at Peacock Springs where the drought conditions were also evident although it was not deterring dozens of cave divers. After breakfast in Mayo we got on 27 and headed east towards Ft. White stopping at Itchatuknee along the way. After Ft. White we saw the sign for O'Leno State Park and so we headed there and hiked around the "sink" trail which is where the Santa Fe River disappears into the ground - rising up a few miles later before entering the Suwannee. O'Leno is a beautiful CCC camp and the architecture of the structures is very distinctive. From there we went to High Springs and then back up to Wellborn where we picked up Andrew and headed home.
All in all it was a good time although with all of the bad - my back, flat tire, stolen paddles, it was a struggle at times. We've decided to avoid Live Oak in the future and not just because of the thieving rednecks. It's really too far away from the water. High Springs or Mayo are much better options for us. We are looking forward to going again and exploring more of the Suwannee and Santa Fe.
We've replaced our paddles now and are feeling a bit happier since it gave us an excuse to visit Pier 17 talk to the owners, pet the dog, climb over the piles of stuff and, of course visit Chamblin's Bookmine next door. We had to upgrade our paddles from Aquabound Navigators to the Expedition models. A little lighter with slightly larger blades. We are looking forward to hitting the water soon and we think a paddle camp is in the offing soon - we are both itching to do it.
10/21/01
Put-In : Cedar Point Creek (Hecksher)
Time : 6:45 a.m.
Temp : 65
Weather : Cloudy, Breezy
Water : light chop
Tide : Incoming
I had my new paddle and was anxious to use it so I got up early and headed to my Cedar Point put-in near my house. I got in about 30 - 40 mins before sunrise and was at the entrance to the northern section about the time the sun rose into a slate gray overcast and quickly disappeared. Unfortunately, in the poor light, I missed my landmark and got in the wrong channel - too far to the east. Eventually it would have led to Hannah Mills or the ICW but I was getting a little tired so I headed back. It was a little gray so I didn't get many photo ops.
I did really notice a difference in my new paddle. The overall shorter length combined with the larger blade size gave me more control and more power. The shaft has ridges in the ferrule that help keep it clean and will prevent it from getting stuck.
10/23/01
Put-In : Browns Creek
Time : 4:45 p.m.
Temp : 75
Weather : Partly Cloudy, Calm
Water : Smooth
Tide : Outgoing
It's been six months since I had put in at Brown's Creek so I thought it was a good place for an after work paddle. It was about a year ago that I saw my first Bald Eagle out here and the last time I was here in April I saw him on the same tree so I was hoping I would get lucky again.
I didn't see him but I had a wonderful paddle anyway. The water and the weather were near perfect and it was extremely quiet. I paddled around to the camping island and hopefully got some good pics of some egrets and herons. I saw someone fishing on the bridge at Shrimpers Creek so I headed over to see who it was. It turned out to be the security guard at the main gate at SJRPP who has worked there since startup 17 years ago. She didn't recognize me at first until I gave her my name and Id number like I have for the last 16 years (as of this coming November 12th). When I told her I was "McCharen 1278" she said "Oh hi darling!"
We chatted a bit and then I headed back, floating with the current, at one point sliding down in the bottom of my boat and enjoying the sounds of the fish flipping all around me and the occasional Rail or Egret squawking. The water was so high at this time of year that even though it was mid-tide outgoing it was really just a little lower than high tide and it meant an easy paddle where-ever I wanted to go. This being the last week of daylight savings time it was nice to get out. I love the light at this time of year when the sun gets low in the sky. The air is clear and the colors are amazing. It was pretty still out and at one point the gnats found me and they were pretty intense when I was getting the boat back in the truck.
10/26/01
- 10/27/01
Put-In : Hannah Mills
Time : 5:00 p.m.
Temp : 70
Weather : Clear, Windy
Water : Choppy
Tide : Incoming
Well, I said I was going to go camping this weekend and I wasn't going to let the weather forecast stand in my way. Actually, I waffled back and forth all week, wishing that I had gone the previous weekend or was ready to go on Thursday night instead of Friday. When I got up on Friday the forecast was even worse. They were now calling for near gale force winds in addition to temperatures in the low 40's. Even if I could stay warm enough in my jungle hammock, I was going to have a rough ride wherever I chose to go.
I had a physical therapy appointment early in the afternoon so I headed out Friday morning to shop around to find something warmer to sleep in. I wasn't able to get back to the house until nearly 4 and as I crossed the Dames Point Bridge I saw the white caps and almost decided to stay home. As I continued on and crossed Browns Creek, one of my potential camp spots, I saw that the water was relatively calm. I continued in up past Hannah Mills and to the ICW and saw that they too were just slightly choppy so I headed home and loaded up.
I hit the water at Hannah Mills around 5 and although the wind was brisk, it was not really stirring up the water except in spots. I wasn't more than 10 yards offshore when I started thinking about all the stuff I had forgotten - like film for my camera and coffee. That's what I get for camping without my brain - Hope. With the boat loaded down pretty good it was susceptible to waves hitting me at an angle and a couple came in the boat. I took the back way to the island, taking a stream that parallels the ICW on the west bank almost a mile north from Heckscher Drive. It took me just opposite the island that Hope and I camped at last April and the water on the ICW was only slightly choppy so it was easy to cross.
Once I go t to the island I found that Hope and I were probably the last ones to camp there and it has become pretty overgrown. I spent some time unpacking and clearing out the underbrush and with the sun heading to the horizon quickly I hurried to get my hammock set up and gather firewood. I got a good fire going and then started working in supper. For this trip my menu plan was a little different. I wanted to try one of the "Backpack Pantry" dehydrated food packs that I have seen for years and while at "Army Navy" I saw a ""Garlic Mash Potatoes" packet for $1.50. I boiled the water for it and then set it aside for the required 10 minutes and then started cooking the chicken breast I had brought along with some Italian breading and olive oil. A few minutes later I was eating a very hearty and filling meal in front of a nice little fire while watching the sun go down.
About 15 minutes after sundown, I heard the sound of dolphins blowing and walked out to the shore to watch. The pair surfaced a couple of times in the golden colored water that the sunset had left. Their exhales were almost musical - a kind of whistling that I had never heard before. An hour or so later they, or another pair, came back by heading the opposite direction.
After an hour or so of sitting by the fire and watching the stars, I started to nod off so I crawled into my hammock. It was not nearly as cold as I was led to believe so I started off with the hammock open. As the night went on, however, the wind picked up and the temperature dropped and I started putting on more layers and zipping the hammock up into a tight cocoon. The "slumberjack" sleeping bag I had purchased earlier in the day kept me warm for the most part but after several hours, with the wind picking up, even it was not enough to keep me from getting chilled. When I finally decided to get up - around 6, I discovered that I had kicked the bottom out of my brand new sleeping bag.
I was shivering pretty good and the wind was starting to howl so I hurriedly built a fire, using my folding saw to cut some wood. It warmed me up and I ate my instant oatmeal which put a nice fire in the belly. I wanted coffee, however, and that was back home and I was starting to get concerned that the wind was going to start kicking up some waves so I packed up and was headed home as the sun broke over the trees. It was a bit of a tough paddle home as the wind was at a 90 degree angle to me most of the way meaning that I had to be careful about waves but it still was not too rough. I got home just in time to watch my favorite Saturday morning show - "Mystery Science Theatre 3000" and enjoyed a nice cup of coffee while waiting for the other sleepy heads to arise.
Next week, Hope and I are planning another trip. We'll see about the weather. I feel like I am getting the hang of this thing though. Making a punch list helps - if you actually use it!
10/29/01
Put-In : Cedar Point Creek (North)
Time : 8:30 a.m.
Temp : 50
Weather : Clear, Windy
Water : Rough
Tide : Outgoing
My trip today reminded me of the Seinfield episode in
which George is pretending to be a marine biologist. “The Sea was angry my
friend…..as angry as an old man trying to send back soup in a deli…”
Well, I don’t know how angry the sea was but the ICW was royally pissed.
I put in at the preserve at the end of Cedar Point Road and my intention was to check out the island that is located just off the ICW at the mouth of Cedar Point Creek. The weather reports were not good – strong winds out of the NE and small craft advisories. I knew that I was only going to be on the ICW for a ¼ mile or so and the rest of the time I would be in more protected waters.
I quickly made it to the waterway and stopped at the island at the mouth of Horseshoe Creek to investigate camping possibilities. I continued down to Cedar Point Creek and stopped at the island there on the waterway. It looked like a good camping island but it turned out to be a little too overgrown so it would require some clearing. As I investigated it, I hiked around the large mudflat behind it and I saw a large group of white birds off in the distance. I assumed that they were egrets or possibly wood storks but as I approached I realized that I was seeing a huge group of white pelicans – somewhere in the neighborhood of 100 or more. As I walked closer to them, a dozen or so at a time would fly up and move on confirming their identity by the black tips on their huge wings.
I moved on from there to investigate the island that was my destination. When I visited it a couple of years ago I remembered that it had camping potential but was pretty overgrown. No longer. It has been well used by fishermen and they have cleared out several campsites including some on the backside that would be protected from the wind.
As I headed back I started to feel a bit of discomfort in my back and at the same time the wind had really picked up. Once I got to the ICW, the water was seething – angry. Added to that was the 40 foot power yachts that were cruising south kicking up huge waves. As a result I had a very tough and painful trip back and now four days later am paying the price for it.
It looks like I will be on the shore for a week or so as I recover from this latest episode. It’s frustrating but I am confident I will be back soon.
11/19/01
Put-In : Cedar Point Creek (South)
Time : 8:30 a.m.
Temp : 65
Weather : Foggy
Water : Smooth
Tide : Incoming
First time out since my latest back flare-up. I had taken the all of the Thanksgiving week off and I was determined to make at least one trip out. My back hasn't been the only thing keeping me on dry land - the weather has been terrible with winds consistently in the teens to twenties everyday.
Today I got up to a heavy fog but relatively calm winds so I headed up the road for a quick put-in at Cedar Point. The fog in the marsh reminds me of snowstorms when I was growing up in the midwest - it deadens the noise making it eerily quiet. There wasn't much bird activity but I snapped some pics of a crabber in the fog with his ubiquitous contingent of pelicans as they passed by.
As I headed back, there was a large ship heading in on the river and every time he blew his fog horn the Rails or Marsh Hens would answer him with their squeaky hinge calls.
11/26/01
Put-In : Ft. George River (Ribault)
Time : 9:30 a.m.
Temp : 70
Weather : Clear
Water : Smooth
Tide : Outgoing
I had to take advantage of the 80 degree temps and calm winds so I headed out to the Ribault ramp and put-in at Ft. George River. I headed across to the camping island on the west bank of Simpsons Creek to see what damage the Nor'easters had done. The point of land where we usually hang our hammocks and where I camped a year and a half ago is now completely gone. Not just the trees but the land itself. The main camping area that others have used is also under attack by the elements although it hasn't deterred the campers who have made it a more permanent weekend residence. They have a dozen chairs, a brick fireplace, and several wind chimes made from sea shells, fishing lines and liquor bottles. Unfortunately, they also have a nice landfill behind the campsite.
I headed from there to Kingsley Plantation and investigated the new dock they are building for tour boats. I saw a couple of Oyster Catchers on a sandbar which I have not seen in a couple of years. I stopped at "our sandbar" on the way back and took a little swim - my latest swim of the year, almost December!
I stopped in at the yacht basin on the way back and snapped some pics of some pelicans and a night heron.
12/20/01
Put-In : Browns Creek
Time : 4:45 p.m.
Temp : 60
Weather : Clear
Water : Choppy
Tide : Outgoing
I had another injection in the SI joint a couple of weeks ago and so I have been taking it easy. I bought a new digital camera last week and I have been anxious to see how it would perform on the water. Of course, I would pick the next-to-the-shortest-day of the year and also the coldest one so far.
It was pleasant. A little windy perhaps, but the water was only a little choppy. Basically. I just turned around the corner and headed toward the bald eagle tree and shot a few pics and them headed back. I'm still getting the hang of the camera but I think I got some good shots. It's no replacement for the Nikon but it does a good job. Only 45 mins after putting in, the sun had set and since I didn't pack a light I headed back. Nice to get out.