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Paddling
Journal March 2004 It's outage time and I am
on nights again so I can enjoy the great paddling weather we have this time
of the year.
Trips this month: 10
Total trips this year: 22
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03/4/04
Put-In : Ft. George River (Alimacani)
Time : 11:00 a.m.
Temp : 75
Weather : Clear
Water : Smooth
Tide : Outgoing
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons, Dolphins
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Great Blue stalking a meal in
Haulover |
Well, I volunteered for nights again and after being stuck at home this week
awaiting futilely for a delivery, I was finally able to get out and enjoy
the fabulous weather.
The tides were all wrong, of course, but I put in at Alimacani around 11:00
at the end of the outgoing tide. I spotted a Great Blue Heron at the
entrance to Haulover Creek and decided to try to get a few pics. He flew off
before I could get my camera ready but he didn't go far and I was able to
stalk him for a while in the interior of the creek. I stalked him as he was
stalking a meal and I was able to watch him for several minutes while he
snagged a few fish.
I moved on from there and paddled against a pretty stiff current as I headed
toward the entrance to Simpsons Creek and our old campsite there. The
location is started to suffer much of the same erosion as the campsite on
the opposite bank and a large oak tree has fallen onto the beach which made
it ideal for hammocking. I vegged out for a while drinking a beer and then
heard the loud exhale of a dolphin and turned to see one surfacing in the
water not more than 15 feet away. I watched him as he caught the tail end of
the outgoing current and headed to the ocean. I followed him a few minutes
later and headed home.
See the pictures from this trip
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03/9/04
Put-In : Hannah Mills
Time : 10:00 a.m.
Temp : 50
Weather : Clear
Water : Glassy
Tide : Slack - Outgoing
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons, Nesting Ospreys, Misc.
Herons and Egrets, Northern Harriers and Ruddy Turnstones
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Ruddy Turnstones on the ICW |
I'm in the night shift groove now and with a week of fine weather forecast I
am planning on hitting the water with abandon.
Today, I awoke refreshed and got into the absolutely glassy water at 10. It
was just cool enough to dig my spray skirt back out but it was warming
quickly toward 70. It was almost a shame to ruin the perfect mirror of the
calm water as I set across the pool toward the first of my usual birding
spots. It was full of Tri-Colors and Snowys and I can't say that I got
anything memorable but it was nice to see them huddled up in the sea daisies
which are starting to turn a lush green. I made my usual stop at the old
cedar and ate an energy bar and then headed out to the ICW where I crossed
over to enter Shad Creek.
After stopping to admire the Osprey's now finished nest atop the channel
tower, I headed toward the river so that I could get a better idea of the
route the Sierra Club is planning to take in a couple of weeks for their
Poker Run. They have asked for my input as they change the route to use Shad
Creek and I wanted to get out there and look at the route as if I were a
novice paddler. I will be meeting with them this Saturday morning and I
wanted to be able to give them good information about where to place their
markers etc.
After I tooled around a bit I came back to the tower where I watched the
nesting pair. Now that the nest is complete it looks as if Mom is sitting on
her eggs while Dad appeared to be playing about - doing some acrobatics
above her head for no apparent reason other than to keep the homebound lady
entertained. They were uncomplaining about my presence and I guess they feel
pretty secure being at least 50 feet above the water.
I spent some "hammock time" on the island near there and finished my
re-reading of the "Return of the King" while I drank a beer. After a good
rest I headed back by the Kingfish Park where I snapped some Ruddy
Turnstones and then paddled against a very stiff outgoing tide as I headed
home.
See the pictures from this trip
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03/10/04
Put-In : Hannah Mills
Time : 10:30 a.m.
Temp : 45
Weather : Breezy
Water : Rough
Tide : Incoming - Outgoing
Wildlife of Note : None
I thought about heading up to Pumpkin Hill today but the wind really picked
up and I decided to go back to Hannah Mills with the intention of exploring
Deep Creek some more. Once I got out there, however, I realized that the
gusts of close to 30 knots would make that a bad idea.
I decided then to head north and west toward the point where Hannah and
Cedar Point meet and I stayed mostly to the smaller streams and out of the
wind as much as possible. There was very little animal life out there today
- a few herons, an osprey or two and a couple of White Pelicans heading
toward the pool but everything else was huddled up out of the wind.
From the midpoint of the marsh I came back south and then took a tiny branch
that heads due east and dumps out just west of the ICW where I headed back
to the southwest and my truck. While loading my boat a fellow kayaker from
out of town stopped by and asked about the tidal conditions in the area.
A breezy, chilly day but it was lonely and quiet out there.
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03/11/04
Put-In : Hannah Mills
Destination : ICW, Deep Creek and Garden Creek
Time : 10:15 a.m.
Trip Length : 3 1/2 hrs
Temp : 50
Weather : Clear, Calm
Water : Smooth
Tide : Incoming - Outgoing
Wildlife of Note : Otter, Great Blues, Misc. Herons
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A pair of Great Blues on the ICW |
I'm in a bit of a Hannah Mills rut, I know, but
when I am limited in time it is just so easy to put in five minutes from my
house and wander off to points unknown - so rather that head to Pumpkin Hill
I decided to do what I had intended to do the day before and explore Deep
Creek.
The weather was the complete opposite of yesterday - the water was like
glass and there was not a cloud in the sky.
The first part of the trip was the usual - I
stopped to harass the herons on the sea daisy outcroppings and then headed
north in the parallel stream that empties out on the ICW north of our first
camping island. Along the way I encountered another otter who had the same
blonde coat that the other otters I have seen in Hannah Mills have worn. He
was also very shy compared to my most recent otter encounter on Haulover
last month. He barely popped his head above the surface a couple of times
and then disappeared for good.
Once out on the ICW, I stopped at an island near
marker 80 and pulled my boat up to let a long line of "snow birds" heading
back up north go by - their huge yachts wreaking havoc on the shoreline as
they plowed northward. I walked around the mudflats a bit and explored the
island for camping potential - too much work - at least for now, although
the mudflat behind it looked like a great spot to spend the night star
gazing.
The entrance to Deep Creek was just opposite where I took my break - a
little north of marker 80 and I quickly found
the branch that I wanted to explore. I had meant to bring my terraserver
picture but forgot it so I was left to do my usual exploring of promising
streams only to confirm that they were dead ends. As I meandered closer to
the western shore of Ft. George Island I finally came across a stream that
had an unusually strong current - especially one so deep in the marsh. I
knew that the source of the current could only be Garden Creek and the ICW
so I followed it until I reached a clear indication that I was indeed in
that stream.
The afternoon was progressing rapidly so I headed back just as the tide
turned. At one point I
crossed paths with a strange phenomenon in Deep
Creek. On this nearly breathless day I suddenly saw the water in front of my
boat sparkle like a million diamonds and I knew that a wind was picking up.
As I coasted toward this sparkling I was looking forward to a cooling wind
since I was now getting a bit warm under my fleece but as soon as I reached
that spot in the water the sparkles began to move in an erratic pattern and
headed toward the bank of grass to my right. I watched as the grass began to
be flattened slightly - but only in a area about 10 feet in circumference,
and that pattern headed off in an erratic pattern across the marsh and
disappeared. Meanwhile, I was sitting in the exact spot where seconds before
the "wind" had been rippling the water - but it was absolutely still. What
was it? A mini-twister cause by the mid-day sun heating the water? A ghost?
The spirit of long departed Timucuan Indians? Weird!
Anyway - I decided to make tracks for home
rather than stop and hang out on any of my usual spots. As I entered Hannah
once again, I noticed a pair of Great Blues roosting in the top of the
cedars on the island across from Shad Creek. One of the herons was
noticeably smaller than the other and I can only assume that this was a
nesting pair of Great Blues since normally you see them by themselves. They
finally flew off but circled together near the island and I wondered if
their nest is somewhere nearby.
I made it back to shore about 3 1/2 hours after I set out and packed up to
go to work yet again.
See the pictures from this trip
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03/13/04
Put-In : Intracoastal (Kingfish Park)
Destination : ICW, Shad Creek
Time : 10:00 a.m.
Trip Length : 2 hrs
Temp : 60
Weather : Clear
Water : Light Chop
Tide : Incoming
Wildlife of Note : Osprey, Great Blues and other Herons
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Osprey with a redfish in Shad Creek |
Today I was to meet with Don Pepe and Dave Baldwin who are running the
Sierra Club's Poker Run around Ft. George Island this month. Don and I have
been corresponding over the past year or so about alternative routes for the
run which normally goes down the St. Johns to Sisters Creek rather that
using Shad Creek. Don and Dave wanted to make the run themselves to see what
I have been talking about and investigate where to place markers and have
checkpoints.
They were setting out from Heckscher Drive around 10 and so I put in at the
Kingfish Park at the same time with the intention of meeting them halfway. I
have never been in this portion of the marsh at this low of a tide and I was
surprised at how it completely changed my perception and view of my
landmarks. Sure enough, I took a wrong turn and wound up in Deep Creek
heading north before I realized my mistake and paddled back to the midpoint
of the marsh where I waited on an oyster shell bank for several minutes.
Obviously, my wrong turn was just enough for me to miss them and so I
headed back toward the channel tower - hoping to catch them at the ICW.
As I headed that way it was hard for me not to forget about the meeting
entirely and spend the day out there photographing the birdlife. At that
water level, the herons and egrets were crowding the banks in search of
food. Twice, I came across a group of 14 Great Blue Herons crowded together
on a shell bank. As I continued to paddle I was stunned by a flash of brown
and white that crashed into the water not 10 feet from the bow of my boat in
a plume of water. The Osprey completely disappeared under the water for a
few seconds and then slowly surfaced as he struggled to stay above the
water. I was still too shocked to get my camera out until he was finally
able to struggle to the surface and then slowly he extricated himself from
the water and flew away clutching an enormous redfish in his claws. I was
able to get one or two photos of him before he flew away.
A few minutes later I had reached the channel tower where I could only see
the male sitting above the nest chirping at me as I approached. As I passed
by I swear that he intentionally let loose with a stream of poop that
drifted in my direction and splattered my boat - and me. I guess that's one
way to get rid of unwanted visitors.
Finally, I got to the ICW and found Don and Dave waiting there. We had nice
chat and they were glad in a way that we had missed connection because they
were forced to find their own way which they did quite easily. They said
that they loved the route and they thought that everyone else would prefer
avoiding the river. I'm happy for that - I was afraid I was steering them
down the wrong path.
We parted company after about a half hour and I headed back to the Kingfish
Park.
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03/18/04
Put-In : Ft. George River (Alimacani)
Destination : Same
Time : 10:15 a.m.
Trip Length : 3 hrs
Temp : 65
Weather : Clear
Water : Light Chop
Tide : Outgoing
Wildlife of Note : Osprey, Great Blues and other Herons
This was just a "veg-out" trip and I had intended to land at the same place
as I did a couple of weeks ago but it was taken and I was forced to head
across to the opposite bank of the mouth of Simpsons Creek - my first
campsite and what used to be a favorite hammock spot until the massive
erosion wiped it out. I was pleasantly surprised to find that it has turned
into a completely different place and has now opened up some pretty nice new
areas to camp and hang out. It's still a bit trashy but I am used to that. I
found several ideal places to hang my jungle hammock and may return this
summer to try them out.
Anyway - nice day to swing in the warm breeze and read.
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03/21/04
Put-In : Hannah Mills
Destination : Deep Creek, Garden Creek, ICW
Time : 7:45 a.m.
Trip Length : 4 hrs
Temp : 60
Weather : Clear, Breezy
Water : Choppy-Rough
Tide : Incoming-Outgoing
Wildlife of Note : Osprey, Great Blues, Snowy Egrets and Northern
Harriers
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Snowy Egrets on the ICW |
Thanks to another day off yesterday I was able to take advantage of a
mid-morning tide and decided to explore the Deep Creek to Garden Creek
connection a little more thoroughly. As I set out, the water was fairly calm
but I could see by the stack at SJRPP that there was some pretty good wind
out there somewhere and I could tell that I would probably find it on the
way home.
After stopping at my favorite breakfast spot - the old cedar, I headed north
and found myself out on the ICW within 30 minutes of setting out. I made my
way across the waterway and entered Deep Creek and soon was in the branch
that winds its way eastward toward Ft. George Island and Garden Creek. This
time I remembered to bring my terraserver pic and I made no wrong turns as I
found the stream that connects the two creeks.
Once in Garden Creek I decided to explore the shoreline a bit and found the
stream that dead ends at the western road of the island and investigated
several pull-offs and possible campsites. I then located the strange
man-made feature that I had found on terraserver a while back and had
investigated way back in January
2001. The long string of little "clump" islands that border most of
the western edge of the island are still as much of a mystery as they were
back then but one day I hope to discover their origin. My guess is that they
are a relic of some aborted development on the island. I also found the
remnants of an old dock that had washed up in the grass in the middle of
Garden Creek.
From there it was a quick jaunt to ICW where I was now buffeted by a strong
westerly wind and a waterway that was full of boats, making it a rough ride
as I headed south. I crossed over the west bank so that the islands on that
side could shield me from some of the wind and I chased a large group of
Snowy Egrets from place to place along the bank for most of the way down the
waterway until I headed back into the branch of Hannah that would take me
home. I was surprised how well my pictures turned out - the wind and the
wakes made it nearly impossible to glide in on anyone before they took
flight but it turned out that some Snowy's were very photogenic after all
See the pictures from this trip
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03/24/04
Put-In : Pumpkin Hill Creek
Destination : Tiger Point
Time : 10:15 a.m.
Trip Length : 3 hrs
Temp : 60
Weather : Clear, Breezy
Water : Rough
Tide : Incoming
Wildlife of Note : Otters, Snowy Egrets, Tri-Color Herons, Northern
Harrier
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One of four otters at Tiger Point |
After two straight days of winds in the 20-30 knot range that canceled
planned excursions, I finally ignored the trees bending in the breeze and
set out for Pumpkin Hill. With N.E. winds in excess of 15 knots I set out
into some pretty rough water with the confidence that I would have a pretty
easy ride home later on. It wasn't too bad in spite of the wind - there was
not a cloud in the sky and not a boat on the water and it felt great to be
hit by the wind and salt water.
It was a pretty uneventful trip to my planned lunch spot at Tiger Point.
There was a gathering of Snowy Egrets and Tri-Colors along a stretch out of
the wind but I was unable to get very close to them. As I approached the
point and was about to turn into Edwards Creek to land - I noticed three or
four small dark heads popping in and out of the water close together about
100 yards away. I thought at first it might be cormorants or mergansers but
as I approached I could detect the outline of ears and whiskers that told me
that this was a family of four otters out for a day on the water. I followed
them over to the grass bank opposite the point and they appeared to gather
up briefly before three of them disappeared for good. The fourth one swam
head up in a semi-circle around my boat as he checked me out a little more
closely and then he was also gone for good. That was the first time that I
have seen more than one otter together in the wild. After years of not
seeing them very often - I am now seeing them quite a lot.
I then headed over to the point and disembarked and set my hammock up out of
the wind. I ate and drank and read and then dozed for a bit before setting
back for the house - glad that the wind, which was now over 20 knots was at
my back.
See the pictures from this trip
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03/25/04
Put-In : Hannah Mills
Destination : Deep Creek, Shad Creek, ICW
Time : 10:00 a.m.
Trip Length : 3 hrs
Temp : 65
Weather : Clear, Breezy
Water : Choppy
Tide : Incoming-Outgoing
Wildlife of Note : Ospreys, Great Blue Herons, Dowitchers and misc.
Herons
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Tri-color and his buddies |
My SI joint was a little gimpy this morning but the breeze was the lightest
it had been all week so I headed for Hannah with the intention of exploring
another one of the branches of Deep Creek that meanders toward the Island.
On my way, I stopped at my usual birding spots including the first sea daisy
island that is normally occupied by Dowithcers and Egrets. As I approached,
I could see the the Dowitchers were being stirred up by something that was
causing them to fly up and around the island. As I got closer, I could hear
the cawing of a crow and sure enough I saw a large one on the banks of the
island that was occasionally flying up and swooping in on the poor Dowitchers which were voicing their displeasure. As
I glided in to take some
pictures of the Tri-colors, the crow flew up and dived on one of the herons
causing him to fly away. The crow apparently didn't want to stick around
with me there so he abandoned his territorial dispute at least temporarily
while I took some pictures of the lone remaining heron and his Dowitcher companions,
who were happy that Mr. Crow had moved on.
I headed on across the ICW and then headed north into Deep Creek. I had brought
my terraserver pic with me to help me find the branch that was just south of
the one that leads into Garden Creek. This one apparently goes nowhere but
almost reaches the shore of the island and I was curious what I would find
there. Unfortunately, I took a turn too soon and wound up back in Shad Creek
close to our dear friends, the Slover's house. Dave and Liz have the best
house on Ft. George Island in my opinion. It has a tremendous view of the
marsh but unlike their ostentatious neighbor to the north - you can't see it
- even up close and that is the sign of house that is compatible with the
preserve - I wish there were more of them out there but I guess if you have
money - you have to show it to people.
I still wanted to explore but my SI joint was telling me otherwise so I
headed back to the island by the channel tower and relaxed a bit before
coming on back. As I pulled into Hannah Mills by the old marina, a dock
building barge preceded me and pulled up along side the pier with a load of
new timbers - apparently the city is going to do some repair work on the
dilapidated dock.
See the pictures from this trip
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03/31/04
Put-In : Ft. George River (Ribault)
Destination : The closest two hammock trees that I could find
Time : 10:00 a.m.
Trip Length : 3 hrs
Temp : 65
Weather : Clear
Water : light chop
Tide : Outgoing-Incoming
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons, Northern Harrier
Just a quickie in the FGR to veg in a hammock. It started off as a bad day
when I had confrontation with one of the bridge workers that has been a long
time coming. Is being a dumbass a requirement to work for the DOT or does it
just get you promoted quicker?
Anyway - I got to meet one of my long time Paddle Post members - Keith
Reynolds who I have been corresponding with for a couple of years so that was
nice. The rest of the trip was a matter of finding those two trees, swinging
in the breeze, drinking a brew, eating a sandwich and reading the latest LeCarre novel.
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