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Paddling
Journal July 2003 The summer is half over already -
who knows what this month has in store.
Trips this month: 6
Total trips this year: 42
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07/3/03
Put-In : Alimacani
Time : 5:15 p.m.
Temp : 80
Weather : Rainy
Water : Smooth
Tide : Outgoing - Incoming
We knew that this paddle picnic was going to be "iffy" at best with tropical
storm "Bill" off to the west but it looked as though the rain would hold off
for a few hours. It held off for a few minutes - just long enough for us to
drive out to Ft. George Inlet where a light rain began to fall.
It wasn't enough to deter us - we could see light skies all around us so we
caught the end of the tide and barely dipped our paddles in the water as we
floated out to a deserted beach near the breakers. We set up, dug our pit,
opened our wine and sat in the intermittent drizzle while our steaks cooked.
The rain eventually stopped and the sun started to come out just before it
set and we decided to go for a walk along the breakers. It was then
that I realized that I had brought three dead batteries for my camera with
me. Oh well - you'll have to take my word for it - the sunset was
spectacular - lot's of odd colors and beautiful pure light reflecting on the
ships out in the anchorage beyond the jetties. We were kept company by a
gull (looked a lot like the same one who was with us last week - who can
tell) and were amused by the sight of a Reddish Heron across the way who was
doing his comedy act - rather unsuccessfully.
Finally, I had to force Hope into her boat so that we could get back before
it got completely dark. We caught the incoming tide and once again hardly
dipped a paddle in the water as we zoomed home.
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07/8/03
Put-In : End of Pumpkin Hill Road
Time : 5:00 p.m.
Temp : 90
Weather : Clear
Water : Smooth
Tide : Incoming-Outgoing
Today, the tide was right to put in at Pumpkin Hill after work but I decided
that instead of heading towards Tiger Point, I would go the opposite
direction - south towards Cedar Point Road and the origin of the creek. The
tide was still incoming and there was a slight southerly breeze which made
the heat a little less oppressive. There are many little branches that
looked inviting but I decided to head for the end of the creek first before
making any side trips. I passed by my original put-in from a few weeks ago
and then made the long loop in the main branch rather than take the direct
cut by that put-in. As I paddled in a shallow area, I was scared to death by
a large redfish who leapt from the water a few inches from my paddle causing
me to curse loudly as he flew by.
There was a section just to the south of my original put-in that was full of
birds - mostly egrets and they flew off well before I could get close enough
to take pictures. There were a few Black Crowned Night Herons in the group
as well as a tri-color or two.
As I continued upstream, I began to notice an odd site. In places it
appeared that the marsh grass was oddly colored and textured. After
accidentally running over one of these clumps, I realized what I was seeing
- masses of mosquitoes that were clinging to the vegetation. When I ran into
them they merely swarmed up noisily but never tried to bite the only piece
of red meat in the vicinity - me. Later, I was reminded that only the
females bite and perhaps I was seeing where the male skeeters congregate. As
I continued further in and the stream got narrower and narrower I saw more
and more of these creepy masses and finally, I decided that I would head
back to open waters - before the females decided to go out bar-hopping -
looking for a mate and a meal.
There was not a lot of bird life on that end of the creek - a few herons and
egrets and the occasional rail - more heard than seen, as usual. When I got
back to my put-in, the tide was just peaking out and I noticed a couple of
islands not far away that had several birds perching so I made my way over
to investigate. Of course, they all flew away well before I approached but I
did see something I have never seen before - an Anhinga who was flying in
circles above the marsh. It was an odd site to see. His silhouette is very
distinctive - quite different that the other cormorants. Besides the
distinctive markings on his back, his wing shape is quite different and his
tail is very long and fan-shaped. He also flew in odd patterns - unlike his
cousins who fly very fast in a straight line.
As I watched him fly I heard the screech of a bird of prey and looked to the
neighboring island and saw what might have been a Red-Tailed Hawk flying off
toward Black Hammock Island. As I watched him, I suddenly heard a loud
grunting and rustling behind me and turned to see two large wild pigs
crashing through the underbrush of the island a few feet from me. They
continued on through the marsh grass and then disappeared as they headed
toward Black Hammock.
By now a large thunderhead had appeared on the horizon rumbling as it
approached so I made my way toward my put-in and headed home.
See the pictures from this trip
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07/10-11/03
Put-In : Hannah Mills Creek
Time : 6:00 p.m.
Temp : 90
Weather : Stormy
Water : Smooth
Tide : Incoming
Kayak Camping on the ICW.
Well, all week long we noticed how uncharacteristically, the thunderstorms
had been staying away from the First Coast so we figured that our camping
trip might get a similar reprieve. That seemed to be confirmed as I checked
the radar periodically at work to see that the skies were remaining clear
well west of us. But as soon as I began loading the boats - I could hear the
rumblings of an approaching storm. It looked to be well to the south of us
and so we crossed out fingers and hoped that the sea breeze would do it's
thing and push it north and south as it so often does here in Jax.
As we set off from Hannah Mills, we began to wonder if we were going to luck
out or if indeed we were going to wind up seeking shelter before we reached
our campsite. The skies behind us were turning black and the occasional
lightning bolts seemed to be getting a little close for our comfort and
safety. Ultimately, I decided that the safest place would be our intended
destination - a new campsite directly east of where we camped in April so we
pushed on. Along the way, we encountered a large flock of Tri-Colored Herons
who were acting unusually skittish and we flushed them several times along
the way out to the ICW. As we approached the waterway we could see the large
gatherings of herons and egrets already underway on the western shores of
all the islands. The trees were laden with dozens of white clumps and
occasionally you could pick out the darker shape of a great blue or a
tri-color amongst the pure white being reflected by what was left of the
sun.
We made it to our camp site well before the storm got too close and as we
entered the lagoon on the east side of the island we flushed a Black Crowned
Night Heron who "wokked!" and then flew to a small tree on the opposite bank
of the pool where he remained the rest of the evening. The underbrush had
grown up considerably since March - nearly obscuring the landing and as I
got out of my boat to make landfall, I was reminded why it's a good idea to
bring your paddle with you as you enter a seldom visited island in Florida -
Banana Spiders. Fortunately for Hope - her 6-4 "boy toy" works quite nicely
as a spider clearing device and I quickly had a path cleared.
I hurriedly unpacked and got the hammocks set up in case the approaching
storm continued it's way toward us - as the flashes of lightning made it
appear it was going to do. Once I felt we had shelter secured - I started
the fire and began cooking our still frozen steaks while we sat and drank a
beer and listened to the approaching thunder. We also heard one of the
oddest sounds we have ever experienced. A few yards from our campsite
was the eastern bank of the ICW and the location of the masses of egrets and
herons we saw as we made our way over. There was a cacophony of creaks,
croaks and grunts coming from that direction that was really almost creepy
to hear. We weren't sure if this was just normal "egret talk" or if they
were upset at our presence or if they were agitated by the approaching
maelstrom. Occasionally we would see several of them circling over the trees
above our heads and it was obvious that those same trees were a common
roosting spot - and it explained the dozens of blue-gray and white feathers
that littered the floor of the campsite.
Eventually, the sea breeze won the battle with the storm and it seemed to
split off and head north and south of us. Apparently, this was what the
birds were talking about because we noticed that as soon as the thunder and
lightning died down - they became strangely quiet. We watched a spectacular
sunset and then retired to the campsite where we ate our steaks, drank our
wine and talked. We walked out to the ICW a couple of times as darkness grew
- hoping for a sight and sound of dolphins. We were disappointed but we were
treated to quite a fireworks show as the lighting continued on to the south
of us well into the night. We enjoyed a "bug-free" evening sitting by our
roaring fire until around midnight when we retired to our hammocks.
The night was more or less uneventful - a bit quieter than the last time but
still a bit too close to Atlantic Marine and Blount Island as well as
Mayport but it was not bad. We were both awakened around 3 a.m. by another
bizarre sound. At first I thought that a raccoon or wild pig was rampaging
in the underbrush near the clearing but it soon became apparent that we were
hearing the sound of several large birds coming in to land in the tree-tops
above our heads. They croaked and groaned and squeaked constantly and this
was accompanied by the "whump, whump, whump" sound of large wings pushing
air as they took off and landed. I'm not sure what they were up to -
fighting, making love or just the usual bird stuff but at times it sounded
like someone was either having way too much fun - or no fun at all. Hard to
tell with birds.
A couple of hours later, I finally arose and walked out to the ICW to watch
the stars and in the gathering light I could see that the trees above our
campground were indeed full of a variety of birds. After watching the
sunrise, I made a fire and did a little housekeeping around the campsite to
make things a little nicer. After waking Hope up we had our breakfast (no
coffee! - there's always something!) and then I decided that we had plenty
of time to take our time heading back.
WRONG! With a low tide at 1:30 pm, I figured that if we left the campsite at
9 - 9:30 we could easily make it back by 10:30 and that would be enough time
to get in before the water left. Well, it took us much longer to battle the
tide and breeze and when we got to the final stage of the trip back - it
appeared as though we still had plenty of water. Well, Mr. "Paddle The
Timucuan" - the same one who admonishes everyone to plan your trips
carefully - especially in Hannah Mills - wound up looking like a fool - a
very muddy fool.
Once I was within a couple of hundred yards of the put-in I realized that I
had miscalculated. I was already scraping bottom and I wound up literally
pulling my boat through the mud with my paddle for about 150 yards. At one
point I decided to attempt to walk the rest of the way - an idea I abandoned
as soon as I reached my waist in mud and was still heading south. I fell
back in my boat and grabbed my paddle and pulled with all my effort until I
was safely on solid ground.
Now, what about your wife, Kevin? Oh yeah - her. She had no idea what was in
store for her and all I could do was wait until she found out. She was
dealing with a good bit less water than I did and finally I could see the
frustration setting in about 100 yards out. With horror I could see her
prepare to exit the boat and I yelled at her that she was not to do that.
She looked at me like I was a deranged fool but stayed in the boat and kept
on trying. Finally, when she was about to give up - we found a way that
still had some water and she got close enough to shore to throw me her line
and I was able to lay out in the mud and pull her to shore.
So - here we are - I'm covered from my shoulders down in black slime and
she's not much better and every step I take I have to stop and retrieve my
tevas from the muck. Finally we made it to the launch point but not before I
got a nasty cut on my hand from an oyster shell. Incredibly, Hope didn't
once mention wanting to kill me (better let her fall asleep tonight first,
though - ) and she was even able to laugh about it before we loaded the
truck.
I would say "lesson learned" but I already knew that lesson - so let's just
say lesson affirmed. It did make me think about carrying a rope in the truck
- in case I need to lasso my bride.
See the pictures from this trip
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07/14/03
Put-In : Ginnie Springs Park - Santa Fe River
Time : 10:30 a.m.
Temp : 80
Weather : Cloudy
Water : Smooth
Tide : N/A
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Gator on the Santa Fe River |
Obviously, this is not a "Timucuan" adventure but one of the rare occasions
when I get the opportunity to paddle elsewhere in Florida. One of our
favorite family day trips over the last 13 years or so has been a visit to
one of the many fresh water springs that dot the landscape south and west of
Jacksonville. Of those - our favorite is Ginnie Springs - a private park
located along the banks of the Santa Fe River, south of Lake City and west
of High Springs. We've only paddled there once - three years ago when I
first bought the Malibu and although we had fun - it was a very limited
excursion. Today, with Hannah back from Miami, we loaded up all three boats
and packed ourselves into two vehicles and headed west about 8:30 a.m.
We got to the park and finally got in the water at the boat ramp on the west
end of the park around 10:30. The water levels have finally started
returning to normal after years of drought conditions and we found that we
could easily paddle against the current and with a greater volume of water
now covering the eel grass, we expended little effort heading east. I had
done a Terraserver check the night before and found an island about a mile
and a half east called "Rum Island" so with Hannah and Andrew in the Malibu
and Hope and I in the Pokes we made our way in that general direction.
Not a whole lot in the way of wildlife. A few egrets, hundreds of turtles
but not much else. We turned into "Blue Springs" - another private
campground upstream and saw a hawk that we couldn't identify up in the
Cypress. We soon reached the island and quickly paddled around it. Once we
reached the place where we were back in the main channel, I spotted an
unmistakable shape on the bank. We kept a respectful distance as we floated
by the five foot gator sunning himself and soon after passed a sign in the
woods that read "WARNING! MATURE GATOR NESTING AREA". Gee, I'm glad that
they are mature gators! I wouldn't want any pregnant teenage mom gators
running around the river - smoking crack and living on welfare.
We glided back with the current and turned into the main spring at Ginnie where we
snorkeled for a while and then ate lunch after rescuing our
food from a couple of felonious squirrels. The lack of sun made it a little
less inviting to hang around the frigid water for too long and so instead of
tubing down to the truck we all decided that paddling was a much better
option. That turned out to be a great idea since as soon as we hit the river
the downpour came and we pretty much paddled in the rain the rest of the
day. Once we got to the boat ramp, the kids wanted to keep going so we
continued on until we were well out of the park on the west side. I had
thoughts about going all of the way to the bridge on 47 but at one point we
saw white water ahead and the current suddenly picked up dramatically so we
turned quickly around and headed in the opposite direction. We loaded up and
headed home just as an even more intense downpour hit the area. It would
have been a nicer day without all of the rain but at least we had the river
and the springs to ourselves. We are looking forward to finally following
through on a proposed camping trip on the river in this area.
See the pictures from this trip
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07/17/03
Put-In : Alimacani
Time : 5:30 p.m.
Temp : 85
Weather : Clear
Water : Rough
Tide : Outgoing - Incoming
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Paddle Picnic with the family on FGR |
This is the first time Hope and I took anyone on one of our "paddle picnics"
and it was our two recent paddle buddies - Hannah and Andrew who went with
us.
Not much to report. The tide was perfect to ride it out and then back in.
There was a very stiff breeze out of the south that made the first part of
the journey very rough and unpleasant but once we cleared the rocks o Little
Talbot we had an easy float to the end of the sandbar. We built our fire and
swam while we watched some "surf sailors" in the breakers and then sat
around snacking while making sure that the gulls didn't try to steal our
steaks off the grill.
We waited until almost sunset and then headed in and found my paddling
co-worker Mike and his girlfriend waiting for us. They had seen us on the
sandbar as they went out to Talbot and honked. We chatted for a while about
our respective paddling adventures and then headed home.
See the pictures from this trip
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07/25/03
Put-In : Alimacani
Time : 10:30 a.m.
Temp : 80
Weather : Stormy
Water : Smooth
Tide : Outgoing
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Stormy day on the water |
It's been a bad week for paddling. The evening T-storms seemed to time their
arrivals in Jax perfectly to keep me ashore and an intestinal virus that
gave me a general crappy feeling all week didn't help much. With Jaguars
camp starting tomorrow, however, I was determined to make at least an
appearance out there today.
The radar and skies looked clear when I set out but by the time I reached
Alimacani the skies to the east were dark and threatening as a front was
coming in off the ocean. I decided to go ahead and try it in spite of the
warnings of another kayaker incoming from the east.
I paddled past the bridge but decided to take cover on the north end and sit
and watch the incoming front from a relatively safe location. It was
fascinating to watch the dark clouds roll in over the bridge. I sat there
for about an hour watching the rain and was treated to the sight of a
dolphin swimming just beyond the bridge. After the rain let up, I paddled
out toward the ocean but as soon as I reached the end of the rocks the
lightning flickered again and I realized that the rain was going to be here
for a long time so I turned around.
As I approached the ramp, I noticed a Reddish Heron on a sandbar doing his
comedy dance act so I stopped to watch him for a while. To my surprise, he
actually caught a small fish - I thought I could hear the fish laughing
though.
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