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 Paddling Journal August 2006

The end of summer - HOT!

Trips this month: 10
Total trips this year: 84
Hours out this month: 34
Distance this month: 57.5 miles
Distance this year: 433.5 miles

8/2/06

Clapboard Creek

8/6/06

Pumpkin Hill

8/9/06

Clapboard Creek

8/11/06

Guana Lake

8/13/06

Pumpkin Hill

8/20/06

Pumpkin Hill

8/21/06

Ft. George River

8/22/06

Guana Lake

8/27/06

Pumpkin Hill

8/28/06

Ft. George River

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8/2/06
Put-In :
Clapboard Creek
Destination : Pinders Island
Time : 5:00 pm
Trip Length : 2 hrs (5 miles)
Temp : 95
Weather : clear, calm
Water : smooth
Tide : outgoing
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons,  Green Herons, Ospreys, Tri-Colors, Snowy Egrets, Little Blue Herons and Great Egrets

A nice idea but......

I finally decided to check out the canoe/kayak launch at the Palms Fish Camp on Clapboard Creek. The Kingfish Tourney began just after it was opened and sent all the fishermen to the new ramp so I didn't want to fight the traffic. I had been down there to investigate it earlier but it was so crowded at the time that I couldn't see the actual kayak launch ramp and had assumed that they were just calling the boat ramp the launch point. Actually, this afternoon I missed it again, initially as I was putting in and it wasn't until I had already unloaded my boat that I finally spotted the ramp at the end of the little cove that used to lie behind the restaurant.

At any rate - I was happy to finally make it back to Clapboard Creek and was excited at the prospect of having a reliable put-in a tenth of a mile from my house that allowed me easy access to the very center of the Timucuan Preserve. The tide was already heading out  but the current wasn't too bad as I made my way up the eastern bank of the creek. The temperature was blisteringly hot - the radio said it was 95 with a heat index of 106 and it felt very bit of that with no breeze to speak of.

Once I reached the southern end of Pelotes Island I crossed over and entered the small stream just south of Lybeck's Landing. This stream has intrigued me since the days 17 years ago when I first began dragging my canoe out behind my house to begin my paddling career. At the entrance to the stream is a partial rock wall that leads me to believe that the pool it leads to was a fish pond or hatchery of some kind. I had seen a Great Egret and a Great Blue up in the trees at the entrance but the tide was too low to go very far and they few off before I could set anything up.

I paddled up along the shoreline of Pelotes and shot an Osprey and a Great Blue as I headed up toward Pinder's Island. There wasn't much birdlife there although there were plenty of little inlets that looked ideal to explore at a higher tide. I found the shortcut through the large grassy point that sticks out from Pinders and got at on the landing there where the old house used to be. I marveled once again at the incredible view the people who once lived here had and was thankful that most of what I could see in front of me was preserved land. In spite of all the overdevelopment that I rail against on this web site - Jacksonville has done a tremendous job setting aside land along the shores of the Timucuan. A lot of brush had grown up and trees fallen in the two years since I was last there so I didn't go into the interior of the island and soon departed.

I decided to go around the bend into the large cove that is on the north side of Pelotes to see if the Eagle's nest was still there. I found the tree that I remember it being in but it was empty - apparently the storms of '04 had blown it down and since I think the Eagles had already abandoned it - they hadn't rebuild there. I know that there must be a nest nearby because I have been seeing the immature Eagle fairly often in Browns Creek.

I headed back - retracing my route. I had the current with me but a stiff sea breeze had kicked up out of the SE. It really cooled things down so I didn't mind that it made the waters a little choppy and forced me to paddle more than I had anticipated. I reached the put-in about 30 minutes later and pulled up to the kayak launching ramp. That is when I discovered the shortcomings of the design for the canoe/kayak launch. Although the shoreline of Clapboard Creek at that spot is hard packed sand as is the shore of the cove where the launching ramp is, the middle of the cove right up to the end of the ramp is pure muck. At mid-tide - I was barely able to paddle up to the end of the ramp where I exited my boat - and promptly sunk up to my knees in mud. I was able to extricate myself and load my boat but I realized that at low tide I would have to walk around the edge of the cove to reach the creek and launch/load from there. They could have thought this out a little better but I do give them an "A" for effort.

See the pictures from this trip

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8/6/06
Put-In :
Pumpkin Hill
Destination : "Shrimpin' Hole"
Time : 10:30 am
Trip Length : 4 hrs (3.5 miles)
Temp : 90
Weather : clear, calm
Water : smooth
Tide : outgoing
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons,  Green Herons, Ospreys, Tri-Colors, Snowy Egrets, Little Blue Herons, Ibis, Roseate Spoonbills, Greater Yellowlegs, Sharks, Black Crowned Night Herons, Yellow Crowned Night Herons, Anhingas, Seaside Sparrows and Great Egrets

Green Heron on Pumpkin Hill near the "Shrimpin' Hole"

I got a late start today and by the time I was able to get going it was after 10 which meant that the tide was well on its way out at any of my regular Sunday put-ins. I was kind of itchin' to try my luck shrimping again anyway so even though I knew the tides weren't going to be ideal I headed for my favorite Sunday morning spot - Pumpkin Hill.

I was surprised to find the put-in empty this late in the day but as I prepared to launch I noticed a couple in a large jon boat heading toward the point. By the time I got going they were grounded on a sandbar so it was apparent that they weren't too familiar with the area. As I passed the point near the trails a guy pulled up in another boat and promptly began casting his net. He stopped at a couple of other places along that stretch of the creek and I could tell he was having good success. At this tide I could see that the larger shrimp were out in the deeper water and there seemed to be plenty of them.

I reached my "Shrimpin Hole" where I cleaned up on them last week but the water levels were just a tad too high to be able to easily get out of my boat so I entered the creek just north of there and paddled up it since there was plenty of water. A Green Heron crossed the stream in front of me so I stopped to shoot him for a while and then paddled up the creek as far as I could until the low water stopped me.

Once I got back to the main channel I decided to get out and try my luck. I managed to get about two dozen over the next hour or so but my success rate was not nearly what it had been a week ago and the size on average was a bit smaller so I decided to paddle on up toward the point. I stopped to shoot a Spoonbill who was feeding on the bank in the company of a very animated Snowy Egret. As I shot the pair the shrimp were literally throwing themselves up on the banks so I decided to paddle a little further down and try my luck. Just as I left the Spoonbill and his friend a large shark lazily surfaced about four feet from my boat.

Snowy and Spoonie hanging out on PH

I managed to find a spot that felt firm enough to stand on so I exited my boat and began casting. I had a little better success - doubling my take in a few minutes but I was barely able to stand in the muck so I got back in my boat and feeling the noon day heat I decided to call it a day.

As I approached the creek I had explored earlier near my shrimping spot I saw a young Great Blue standing at the mouth staring intently at the water. I shot him for a while before he flew to the opposite side of the entrance to the creek. There were some Tri-Colors further up the stream who were standing with their bodies nearly parallel to the water so that they could minimize the glare as they stalked their prey. When I entered the creek to attempt to get closer, shrimp hell broke loose - large shrimp began bombarding my boat, flying over my cockpit, landing in my lap and generally making a ruckus.

Great Blue checking out the shrimp

Well, I decided, if they are that anxious to come home with me I will give it another shot and I pulled over to where I had begun the day and began casting again. This time I was much more successful and on a couple of occasions I pulled in a net with a dozen or more shrimp. As I was casting, a pair of sting rays came swimming lazily by my feet. I tried to shoo them away but they seemed content to sit in the shallow water near the grass to watch what I was doing. I spent about another 45 minutes there and probably doubled my take again before I decided to call it a day for real.

There was an Immature Yellow Crowned Night Heron on the banks in the company of a mature and they both flushed together and seemed to be a pair. There was also a Green Heron and a Black Crowned Night Heron nearby. Once I got to the put-in it was dead low tide and the area across the way was full of Great Blues, Tri-Colors, Spoonbills and several other varieties of birds - all feasting on the shrimp buffet.

Once I got home I counted what I had as I cleaned them and it came to around 70. Enough for a shrimp cocktail appetizer so I boiled them up and we munched on them with some white wine spritzers. Ahhhhh! Summer time in NE Florida!

See the pictures from this trip

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8/9/06
Put-In :
Clapboard Creek
Destination : Pinders Island
Time : 6:30 pm
Trip Length : 2.5 hrs (6 miles)
Temp : 85
Weather : partly cloudy, breezy
Water : smooth
Tide : incoming
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons,  Green Herons, Ospreys, Tri-Colors, Snowy Egrets, Little Blue Herons, Roseate Spoonbills and Great Egrets

Stormy skies over Pelotes Island on Clapboard Creek

I had planned to go paddling in Clapboard Creek after work so that I could watch the full moon rise over the marsh. After an exhausting day at work, however, I came home and after considering changing my plans to a cooling paddle on the FGR I crashed and decided to veg out in front of the TV.

About 6 I revived myself and decided that a full moon paddle was just too good of an opportunity to waste so I loaded up and headed a 1/4 mile down the road to the Palms Fish Camp and was in the water by 6:30. A huge Marsh Bunny was waiting for me at the bottom of the ramp and he scurried under the fence to the dredge spoil and disappeared. I was surprised to find that the put-in ramp was completely empty of water even at mid-tide. I'm guessing that because of the nature of the man-made cove and its location at the mouth of Clapboard Creek that it is the last thing to get filled in on an incoming tide. It makes the put-in even less desirable in my opinion and I hope things will be done to correct this. I was able to park my truck to the north of the ramp and use the concrete rubble to step down onto the sandy beach and relatively easily get my boat to the banks of Clapboard Creek. As put-ins go it was not too bad - or at least I can say I have had far worse.

The current was strong and there was a good sea breeze coming in which made the trip up easy and pleasant. There was a storm brewing to the SW and I could see the rain falling not far away but it dissipated well before it reached me. I crossed over to the Pelotes side and entered the shortcut through the grassy point east of Pinders and headed into the cove north of Pelotes. I paddled over to the large island that lay in front of the entrance to the cove - I believe it is called Magnolia Island due to the large trees of that type that predominate. I'm not sure if it is actually part of the preserve but it may be part of the Machaba Balu purchase so I was curious to check it out again for camping.

Roseate Spoonbills on Clapboard Creek

I was about to attempt a circumnavigation from the southern side but as I approached the island I could hear the croaks and groans of a heron roost and I knew that the NW side would be where the birds were sitting since it would give them a view of the setting sun while keeping them out of the breeze. With the current heading in I also knew that it would be easier to shoot them as I floated past so I headed that way. The trees were full of Great Egrets as usual for a roost like that but there was also a pair of Spoonbills and an Osprey. I got a few good shots before they flew off and I completed the circuit from the NW side.

I explored the cove a little while longer and noticed that at this time of the evening it was indeed becoming a popular place with the birds but the sun was setting to the west and I knew I needed to start back. I decided to go the long way around the grassy point east of Pinders and got a good view of the sunset behind the point. The tide was only and hour away fro peeking which normally would mean a slacker flow but at this point in the creek at least the current was still rushing in - something I remembered from previous trips . As I headed south down the creek I began to see dozens if not hundreds of Ibis flying in formation - all heading to Ibis convention or church, I reckon.

Sunset

I made slow but steady progress toward the bridge but the light was failing a little quicker  that I had anticipated so got my flashlight out and clipped to my shirt so that at least I would be legal if the law happened by. I only saw a couple of boats and I made sure that I was close enough to the grass to duck in for safety if one came my way. Finally, I reached the area just north of the ramp about the time the moon was set to rise. I pulled into a shallow pool that had an open view to the east where I knew I would be safe from traffic and lay back to wait.  Several minutes past the scheduled moonrise I could barely make out the dim shape of the moon rising behind a fairly thick cloud cover that sat on the horizon and I realized that it was going to be several more minutes before it cleared the obstruction so I wrapped up my trip and loaded up in near total darkness.

See the pictures from this trip

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8/11/06
Put-In :
Guana Lake (Six Mile Landing)
Destination : same
Time : 10:30 am
Trip Length : 2 hrs (3 miles)
Temp : 85
Weather : clear, light breeze
Water : light chop
Tide : n/a
Wildlife of Note : Ospreys, Great Egrets, Little Blue Herons, Great Egrets, Snowy Egrets, Swallow Tailed Kites, Least Bitterns, Tri-Colored Herons, Great Blue Herons, Anhingas, Gators, Coots and Moorhens

Least Bittern at Guana

It was Hopey's turn to spend a day at the Mayo Clinic so we arranged to meet there when she was done with the first part of her tests and head to Guana.

After stopping to pick up some lunch in Ponte Vedra we made it to Six Mile Landing at 10:30 and headed north. I was a bit shocked and disappointed to see the changes in the area. The lush green vegetation that I have bee used to in my trips here over that last 8 months was now a landscape of dead, brown cattails. The water level was higher than I had ever seen it so I assume that this is a part of the way that they control the growth of the vegetation but it really changed everything. It was very hot as usual but there was a stiff wind blowing across the lake from the west so it helped to cool things down.

The higher water levels seemed to change the wildlife as well as the density and variety of birdlife was nothing like what it has been. The calls of the Moorhens and Coots which formerly had been a nearly constant serenade as I paddled were now only occasional. We saw only a few Great Egrets, Tri-Colors and Great Blues for the first 30 minutes or so and not a Gator head anywhere in sight.

We paddled up to the where I usually turn around - about a mile and a half from the ramp and then headed back. Not long after we turned around I spotted a large gator swimming up a small stream away from us. I pointed it out to Hope and we followed it for a bit. He finally slipped beneath that water and we decided to not follow him any further up the creek. There was a young Great Blue standing on the grass near where he disappeared and I shot a few pictures of him. We saw another Gator a little bit later - a small one who disappeared quickly.

Guana Gator

We were watching a Swallow-tailed Kite fly overheard when I noticed a large intricately woven nest near the top a growth of cattails. There was a female Redwing Blackbird chirping nearby and I later identified the nest as one of theirs. As we were watching the Blackbird I noticed another bird hiding in the grass nearby and I realized that it was a Least Bittern. He was doing a good impression of a blade of grass until we finally got too close and he flew away.

We saw lots of Anhingas while we out there - some perching, some flying about and some swimming around feeding with just their necks exposed above the water. We took a long break near some cattails and while Hope took a nap in her boat I photographed the grass against the bright blue sky and wispy clouds. We decided to head back and eat our sandwiches at the beach access up the road.

Great Blue Heron on Guana Lake

The day was a little disappointing. After all the trips I had made here recently. I was looking forward to showing Hope what I had been seeing out here but since I had never paddled there in August I guess I'll just have to mark that down to experience. It was still a good day and we had fun. We stopped at the Fresh Market on the way back and picked up some really nice deserts before we parted company.

See the pictures from this trip

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8/13/06
Put-In :
Pumpkin Hill
Destination : Edwards Flats
Time : 7:30 am
Trip Length : 4.5 hrs (8 miles)
Temp : 75
Weather : foggy, calm
Water : smooth
Tide : outgoing-incoming
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons,  Green Herons, Ospreys, Tri-Colors, Snowy Egrets, Little Blue Herons, Ibis, Roseate Spoonbills, Black Bellied Plovers, Dolphins, Black Crowned Night Herons, Yellow Crowned Night Herons, Anhingas, Seaside Sparrows, Great Egrets and Otters

My otter pals on Pumpkin Hill Creek

It was a misty, moisty morning at the First Church of God in Nature - Pumpkin Hill Branch. It was actually, dare I say, COOL - that's right - COOL - almost. There was a mist in the air and a bit of a breeze and for the first time in what seems like months the sun was nowhere to be found making it a pleasant day for paddling.

Due to my recent success in raking in the shrimp here on Pumpkin Hill we decided to invite some friends over for dinner which I was going to catch. With low tide at 8 am I figured that if I made it in the water a around 7:30 that I could catch the outgoing tide to my shrimpin' hole and have the perfect situation to catch dozens of shrimp. I even brought corn meal to bait the area and so I really expected to bring home enough shrimp for dinner for several nights. There was only one problem - the shrimp were not there. I'm not sure where they were but for the first time in a couple of months they were not in Pumpkin Hill.

Clapper Rail on Pumpkin Hill

I made my way toward my usual spot pausing to shoot the usual assortment of Clapper Rails, Great Blues, Night Herons and Spoonbills. I noticed, however, that the usual activity in the water - the large shrimp leaping to and fro banging off the sides of my boat was not there. I reached my spot about an hour after putting in. There were not shrimp leaping about as usual but I went ahead and got out of my boat and baited the area. My first toss of the net gave me reason to hope as a good size shrimp was flipping in the net as I pulled it in. I put him in my cooler and proceeded to toss several more times - but came up empty every time. After about 20 minutes of empty nets I decided to continue on toward the point and try my luck elsewhere.

I spotted an immature Yellow Crown Night Heron who was in the process of eating a crab and I paused to shoot him. When I pushed off to leave him I spotted a couple of long furry shapes swimming along the edge of the muddy sandbar opposite where I was. I soon realized that the thick furry snakes were my old pals the Otters that I ran across a couple of months ago at the point.

Immature Yellow Crown with a Crab

I paddled across the creek but as soon as I beached my boat I lost sight of them. Soon, however, a whiskered face popped its head above the sandbar about 20 yards away and I realized that the pair were in the pool that lay between the bar and the grass. As I watched they suddenly came romping toward me across the mud. The surface of the sandbar was an ideal "Otter Surface" - slick and smooth and the pair would romp and then slide across the mud for several feet, stopping now and them to raise their heads to check me out. They stopped short of me about 20 feet away and realizing that I was blocking their return route to the water they turned and began romping and sliding back toward the grass.

Slippin' and Slidin' on mud

Who dat?!

They paused at the entrance to a small stream into the marsh and took a long look back at me before disappearing. I assumed that would be the last I would see of them and began to shoot the track they had made across the mud. A few seconds later I looked up and saw a pair of whiskered faces staring at me from the entrance to the same stream and soon they came romping back across the mud toward me. They stopped in nearly the same place as before and once again took a long look at me huffing and whistling before retreating back to the safety of the small stream, pausing once again at the mouth before disappearing. Here's the link to the video I took of them.

Let's hide from that guy!

I stayed put for several minutes hoping they would return but they did not. I'm not sure why they didn't choose another route to the water but perhaps that was not their intentions. They may have simply been curious about me and decided to seek refuge in the grass until I left. At any rate - it completely erased any disappointment I was feeling about the lack of shrimp. I once again marveled at my good fortune at living in a place that afforded me such encounters with a medley of nature such as is present here.

I passed by Tiger Point and was hailed by Mr. Bonny the park "manager" who was standing on the shoreline. I bypassed the point and headed to the oyster beds on the curve into the Edwards Flats. I spotted a pair of Black Bellied Plovers along the way - I haven't seen many of them this summer for some reason. Flying overhead I saw what seemed to be every Spoonbill in the area flying toward the Broward Islands.

I am usually in this part of the creek when the tide is very low so I took advantage of the high water level to explore around the edges and went into one stream that went for some ways into the flats before an oyster bed stopped me. I skirted the edge passing a Yellow Crown with a crab or oyster in his beak. I found my way to the northern edge of the large cove where Pumpkin Hill begins to head east toward Black Hammock. I began to notice that all along the edge the banks were hard clay pock marked with crab holes. I beached my boat and got out to walk on the Flats. It was apparent that I could walk for quite a ways across the flats if I wanted to. I took a 360 panoramic shot of the area and then decided to make my way back home.

Move over!

As I passed the point I noticed that the trees had some Spoonies perching in their usual spots so I took advantage of the incoming current and floated past them before heading back out into Pumpkin Hill. I passed the next point which at high tide is usually full of a variety of birdlife and today was no different. I saw all the types of Herons and Egrets that are common in this area as well as Spoonbills, an Anhinga and a pair of Wood Storks including one very young bird.

See the pictures from this trip

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8/20/06
Put-In :
Pumpkin Hill
Destination : Broward Islands
Time : 7:30 am
Trip Length : 6 hrs (13.5 miles)
Temp : 75
Weather : cloudy, light breeze
Water : smooth
Tide : incoming-outgoing
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons,  Green Herons, Ospreys, Tri-Colors, Snowy Egrets, Little Blue Herons, Ibis, Roseate Spoonbills, Black Bellied Plovers, Dolphins, Black Crowned Night Herons, Yellow Crowned Night Herons, Canada Geese, Seaside Sparrows and Great Egrets

A pair of Canada Geese on Pumpkin Hill

With high tide at around 7:30 I could have gone just about anywhere but I decided - "why mess with success?" Actually, with shrimping season apparently over, I have been thinking about expanding my trips in Pumpkin Hill a little and heading over toward the Broward Islands once again. There is a little stream that has caught my attention on the satellite photos that I thought might be interesting so once I got in the water I headed north.

The tide was just peaking in Pumpkin Hill and there was a slight breeze coming from the SW making it a very pleasant morning. Since the tides are about an hour behind in PH I really needed to make a beeline for the stream that runs along the southern edge of the Broward Islands but, of course, I couldn't really do that. Even with the water level high there was plenty to distract me along the way and I pulled into the stream that runs along the little point and tried to shoot some Night Herons. I was unsuccessful but did manage a great shot of the sun breaking through the clouds and reflecting off the pool in front of the trees there.

Breaking through the clouds

I got to Tiger point in about an hour and was surprised to find it empty of Spoonies since they are usually here when the tide is up. There was a lone immature Yellow Crowned Night Heron who posed for me with the Spanish Moss making a nice backdrop.

I headed on north turning toward Black Hammock instead of skirting the edge of the large cove as I usually do. As I approached the point where PH runs along the western bank of Black Hammock, I began to notice that huge flocks of Ibis were all landing in the same place in the grass nearby. Hundreds if not thousands of Ibis continued to sail in over the Hammock and all gathered in a small area of shallow water in the marsh grass. I have seen them do this occasionally and it is quite a sight to see the mass of birds "graze" together as a group. I paddled over but the grass blocked my view from where I was sitting. I could hear them "quack" at each other but then I began to hear a much louder quacking sound coming from the direction of the island.

I assumed that it was more Ibis coming in for a raucous landing but as it got louder I realized that instead of a quacking sound it was a honking call that I was hearing. I looked up to see a pair of Canada Geese flying in over the island who then proceeded to circle the cove honking incessantly as they flew low over the water. They made several passes before finally landing on the water and began to swim in my direction.

Young Yellow Crowned Night Heron at Tiger Point

As I moved to try to get a better shot of the Ibis they flushed and rose as a huge cloud. Most of them merely circled the area and returned but some flew off toward the Edwards Flats. I turned my attention to the Geese and quickly intercepted them. They seemed unperturbed by me and calmly swam past as they floated with the now outgoing tide. I shot several pictures as they floated a few feet in front of me and then we parted company. I know that Canada Geese are not at all rare and it seems as if every retention pond in Jacksonville has at least one pair but I have never seen them out "in the wild". Perhaps these were some yuppie Geese from a gated community out slumming with their poor cousins. At any rate it was a treat to see them.

I made my way past the houses on Black Hammock and then turned to the west to find the stream that heads into the flats. Fortunately, the current was not too strong and I was able to make my way up to the island in short order. I passed what I thought was my goal - the little stream that runs north between the first two islands in the chain but since I wasn't sure I continued on toward the second island. I was pretty sure that since the Spoonbills weren't back at the point that they would be in the trees here and I was right as five or six were roosting there. I made a pass and then headed back toward the stream.

Spoonie at their Broward Island roost

There was plenty of water still but since I was unfamiliar with the little creek I was cautious about going too far. The stream meandered and switched back and forth and even though it was deep most of the way it consistently narrowed down until it was barely wider than my boat. I had hoped that it would allow me access to either island and perhaps at a higher tide it would have but I finally turned back as the water levels began to decrease.

I let the current carry me toward Pumpkin Hill and once back in the creek I made the turn to the north. As soon as I did a pod of five or six dolphins surfaced in front of me followed by another pair some distance back. The larger group were surfacing in a tight group and I'm sure that they had a youngster with them.

Dolphins near Black Hammock

I fought the tide the whole way in and had a stiff sea breeze coming at me to boot. By the end of the day I was bushed having been in my boat for six hours and having covered 13.5 miles.

 

 

 

See the pictures from this trip

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8/21/06
Put-In :
Ft. George River (Alimacani)
Destination : same
Time : 5:15 pm
Trip Length : 2.5  hrs (3.5 miles)
Temp : 90
Weather : clear, windy
Water : rough
Tide : incoming
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons,  Reddish Egrets, Ospreys, Tri-Colors, Little Blue Herons, Ibis, Roseate Spoonbills, Skimmers and Great Egrets

Reddish Egret on the FGR

The cloudless, bright blue skies beckoned me all day long so with an empty house to return to after work I picked up a sandwich on the way home, packed a beer and headed for the FGR. High tide was scheduled for around 8 pm - about the same time as sunset so I figured that I would ride the tide in to our sandbar past the houses and then watch the sunset and come back at slack tide.

I didn't account for the unusually strong sea breeze which was gusting at over 20 knots and kicking the waves up in the inlet. The force of the wind added to the normally strong tidal surge in front of the ramp at mid-tide and the water was literally rushing past as I set out. I reconsidered my plans for just a minute but I figured that at worst I would be out there until well after dark so I went ahead.

Skimmers

I was a little surprised at how crowded the ramp was for a weekday after the school year had begun but apparently the primary cause was a single Jet Ski family who were all doing aqua donuts about a 1/4 mile inland from the ramp with about five PWC's. The current carried me swiftly toward the Ribault Club Yacht basin but I paused at the sandbar across from Alimacani to shoot a Reddish Egret who was standing around with some Skimmers including a couple of splotchy youths.

I checked out the basin and found that the leeward bank was full of Roseate Spoonbills so I took a few pictures before heading back out into the river. I was quickly into the creek that cuts behind the sandbar where the FGR bends sharply toward Point Isabella and beached my boat on the remains of the bar. I took a swim in the incredibly swift water that lately has become like a lap pool as it rushes over the sand. I could swim as hard as I could and stay in the same place. I ate and drank my beer and then decided to pull my boat across the shallow water so that I could paddle directly across the large grassy sandbar opposite the houses. I ferried over and entered the little stream that bisects a majority of the bar and runs by the old channel marker pole.

Spoonies and friend in the yacht basin

I exited the other side of the sandbar and then paddled back toward the bridge, hugging the sandbar to stay out of the current. Once I got to the point where the channel begins to bend back toward Ft. George Island I began to ferry across to the Little Talbot side. By this time I had decided that I would at least make an attempt at getting back before sundown by trying to do what I should have done last July when I was caught out here in the incoming tide. Once I reached the other side of the channel I found the entrance to the little creek that runs from the north side of the bridge and down Little Talbot exiting through some marsh grass that has grown up there in recent years.

As I pulled into the stream I spotted a Great Blue sitting on a fallen tree enjoying the fading light. I managed some good shots before he few further up the bank. I continued on toward the bridge where I could see a Reddish dancing. He was too shy to do it for an audience, however, and merely stood in the sun's glare as I shot him. I paddled up toward the bridge without much problem until I was directly inland from the pilings. The water was crashing through the supports from the inlet so I knew if I set my boat at an angle I could ferry across and then make a quick turn into the ramp but the large sandbar is not too far downstream of the bridge so I was wary of being swamped up against it and had to stay closer to the pilings than I would have liked.

Great Blue Heron

The ride across was a wild one and would have been a lot more fun had I remembered to stow my camera away. The tide driven swells were rolling through the openings but the wind was whipping them every which way. The columns of the bridge were re-directing the waves and made them come at me from all angles. I had to maintain a sharp focus and keep my paddles "quick" as I worked my way across. The current would occasionally ease up and I would find myself suddenly too close to the pilings and have to back off. At one point near the middle of the bridge I noticed a flat spot in the water. As soon as I reached it I realized why - this was the point where the wind was clear of obstructions from Huegenot Park and it stepped up a notch or two and nearly blew my hat off.

Reddish in the evening light

I finally reached the other side and spun my boat around as quickly as possible to head toward the ramp. I found myself suddenly riding the swells in and I had to paddle as hard as I could to stay ahead of them and avoid being swamped from my stern. The entrance to the ramp was nearly obscured by the high water but I spotted it and zoomed in to beach my boat. Fun!

 

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8/22/06
Put-In :
Guana Lake (Six Mile Landing)
Destination : same
Time : 7:15 pm
Trip Length :1 hr (2 miles)
Temp : 85
Weather : stormy, light breeze
Water : smooth
Tide : n/a
Wildlife of Note : Ospreys, Great Egrets, Little Blue Herons, Snowy Egrets, Least Bitterns, Tri-Colored Herons, Great Blue Herons, Ibis and Glossy Ibis

Sunset at Guana

Hopey returned from her annual "POST" conference at Camp Weed. Because of a schedule conflict I wasn't able to spend the weekend with her like I have in the past but tonight she was back in town although she had a meeting to attend in Ponte Vedra. We decided that we could spend some time together if I took her out to eat and then dropped her off and it would give me an excuse to go paddling in Guana.

I wasn't sure about doing it at Six Mile Landing, however, because I was sure that I had seen or read that it closed at sunset as do almost all state parks. As I pulled into the parking area a young couple were launching a couple of kayaks and preparing to kayak fish. Behind them to the west a dark storm was brewing and I could see lightning bolts hitting the ground at what appeared to be a pretty close distance. I scanned the signs again but couldn't see any indication of a closing time but the approaching storm made me decide to head further south to the area just below the dam to try a launch from there.

Once I got there the dark clouds were nearly directly overhead and more lightning was popping nearby. To make matters worse the park people have installed a fence along the property to the Visitor's Center blocking off part of the access to the river. The rest of the access is a very soft road that I was sure my truck would get stuck in so I parked up close to A1A and walked down.

Incredible colors

As I stood above the water surveying the situation a White Tailed Deer that had been drinking water from a pool directly behind the Gate Station hopped into the Wax Myrtle Hammock and disappeared. After much consideration I gave up on putting in at this location. It would have required a long walk down from where I would have to park and with the storm looking more threatening by the second I was afraid that it would wind up being a lot of effort for nothing.

I had all but decided to head back to Ponte Vedra to hang out in a bookstore but as I got close to Six Mile Landing I noticed that the storm had suddenly dissipated so I pulled in. As I stood at the water's edge I watched the sky to the west and realized that there was about to be a spectacular sunset. I decided to put-in anyway and even if it was only for a short paddle it would be worth it.

I paddled directly south toward the open end of the lake and soon spotted the couple who were out fishing. I paddled over to them and asked if they closed the landing after sun down. They assured me that except during hunting season that the parking area stayed open all night long and that some of their friends fished the lake at all hours of the night.

So - with that reassurance I set out to enjoy the incredible show that was about to be put on in the western sky. I decided to head further south a ways and then cross over to the west where I found the main channel and headed back north. I scared up a few herons and a Least Bittern but I mostly concentrated on shooting the sky as it changed colors and turned the cat tails from a dull, dingy brown to a glowing orange.

End of the day, end of the paddle

As I approached the channel that turns back toward the ramp I began to see the heads of many herons in a large grassy area. As soon as I got close I realized that it was an enormous roost of all kinds of birds - several hundreds at least - dozens of which would flush out and then settled back down as I got close. Among the many varieties I spotted several Glossy Ibis but the fading light didn't allow me to get any good shots. The croaks and groans coming from the grass was louder than anything I have heard coming from the roosts I am familiar with in the Timucuan.

I got to the ramp a few minutes after sunset and went to pick up Hope. We are already making plans to return here for a Full Moon Paddle - around about the 8th of next month, I believe.

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8/27/06
Put-In :
Pumpkin Hill
Destination : Broward Islands
Time : 7:30 am
Trip Length : 6 hrs (12 miles)
Temp : 75
Weather : rainy, light breeze
Water : smooth
Tide : incoming
Wildlife of Note : Great Blue Herons,  Green Herons, Ospreys, Tri-Colors, Snowy Egrets, Little Blue Herons, Ibis, Roseate Spoonbills,  Dolphins, Yellow Crowned Night Herons, Seaside Sparrows and Great Egrets

Green Heron on Pumpkin Hill

Last week's trip to the Broward Islands got me thinking about making another trip up there if the tides were right. With high tide at around 1 at Tiger Point I knew that once I got to the point I could head into Edwards Creek and make my way up to the islands from the opposite direction. There was also one of the smaller islands in the chain that lies west of the stream I take through the flats that looked like it might have some camping possibilities. In the past, when I have done circumnavigations of the Edwards Flats the tide has been too low by the time I reached the big bay that is south of the islands so I haven't been able to explore the area too much.

As I loaded my boat onto my cart, the park manager drove up the road from his Sunday morning beer run and asked if I was going to be rained out. I told him I didn't think so but as soon as I got in the water a few minutes later the rain came pouring down giving me a pretty good soaking and making sure that I kept my camera stowed for the first mile or so.

Green Heron

The tide had just turned so the current wasn't too bad and within 45 minutes I was at my shrimping spot. A lone dolphin swam by as the rain subsided and after he went by I spotted the same young Green Heron that I have been seeing in this area so I pulled over to shoot him. He was focused on the water and actually let me drift in quite close. I was busy shooting away when I noticed that he was looking more at me and starting to get agitated. I looked up from my viewfinder and realized that the bow of my boat was only 6-8 inches away from him. He didn't mind too much and simply walked to a new spot where he continued to hunt. Even after I pushed off several minutes later he simply stared at me as I paddled away.

As I approached the point I saw an Osprey sitting in the tree to the entrance of Edwards Creek and beyond him the rest of the trees at the point were full of Roseate Spoonbills. I cruised past shooting them and soon realized that there was a pair of Ospreys - probably the same pair I have seen up here recently. I'm not sure if they are the kids from the nest down the road or the parents but they once again chased each other around the area for a few seconds so I'm sure its one or the other.

Spoonies at the point

I ate breakfast down from the point and explored a potential camping area before catching the strong current toward the huge bay that lies west of the flats. I was there in less than 30 minutes and then made my way across in a NW direction to the island that I wanted to check out. I could see from the distance that the trees on the southern side of the island were full of birds. As I got closer I could tell that there were both Wood Storks and Spoonbills as well as some herons and egrets. Another storm was approaching from the east and that made the tree occupants nervous and my presence didn't help much either. I did managed to discover that although the grass extends out quite a ways from the island that the base was hard clay. I could have gotten out and explored the island for camping and I could see some potentially good spots but I decided to make my way north to the main islands to complete my circumnavigation.

I was a little surprised to find the current flowing against me but I had experienced this before coming from the opposite direction. Apparently, unlike most streams that bisect a marsh, this stream has no midpoint where the current changes direction. It flows only one direction and is influenced only by the Nassau River and Pumpkin Hill to the east. In other words - if the tide is coming in it flows only east to west - when going out it flows west to east in it's entirety. The current was manageable, however, and soon I was at the island where the Spoonbills roost and it was indeed full of the pink birds. They flushed and flew around a bit but always landed back in the same area while the egrets and herons flew away. That is something I have noticed about Spoonies - they rarely give up a good perch.

Wood Storks on the Broward Islands

The water level was high enough that I was able to easily get out and investigate the campsite which I will use someday soon. It was extremely buggy, however, and my arms and legs were covered with mosquitoes before I departed. I paddled east toward Pumpkin Hill and was happy to find that the current was still heading in. By the time I reached the point the tide was slack and there was a nice sea breeze coming in that helped me when it was at my back and didn't hurt me much when it wasn't. I paused to shoot one of the Ibis flocks that mass in the flats at high tide. It is quite a sight to see - hundreds of birds sitting there croaking with their curved beaks.

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8/28/06
Put-In :
Ft. George River (Alimacani)
Destination : same
Time : 11:00 am
Trip Length : 3  hrs (1 miles)
Temp : 90
Weather : clear, breezy
Water : rough
Tide : incoming-outgoing
Wildlife of Note : Reddish Egrets and Ospreys

Reddish Egret prancing on the FGR

After 12 miles and 6 hours in the boat yesterday I decided to chill out and take Hopey for a very short trip on the FGR.

We put in behind the Ribault Club and floated on the incoming tide to the sandbar just beyond the houses. A Reddish Egret was there waiting for us and so I floated over and shot him for several minutes before unloading our boats. He stuck around for several minutes before heading on to some shallower water where he could dance better.

We spent the next couple of hours reading and swimming and generally enjoying the sun while we waited for the tide to turn and then we had an easy ride back.

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DISCLAIMER :  This web site is my own personal web site and does not express the opinions or views of any other person or organization. Use the information contained herein at your own risk. I do not attempt to represent myself as an expert in the matters of paddling or the outdoors. Note : There are many references to areas where I have noted as pleasant and inviting places to either picnic, camp or otherwise enjoy. Be aware that you do so at your own risk and any violation of trespass laws you do so at your own discretion. Please be respectful of both the environment and other people's property. Note : I find it really sad that I have to even include a statement like this!